Gardeners often face frustration when small animals like rabbits, groundhogs, voles, or moles invade garden beds, eat crops, and damage plant roots. These animals are excellent diggers, and standard above-ground fencing is not enough to keep them out. The most effective defense is a buried garden fence that physically blocks animals both above and below the surface.
This complete guide explains everything you need to know—from planning and choosing materials to step-by-step installation. You’ll learn how deep to bury the fence, which designs work best for different animals, and how to maintain the barrier long-term without harming wildlife.
Why a Buried Fence Is Necessary
Unlike deer or birds, small ground-dwelling animals bypass fences by burrowing. Even a strong vertical barrier will fail if the animal can dig just beneath it and enter unnoticed.
Benefits of a Buried Fence:
- Physically blocks digging animals like rabbits and groundhogs
- Protects root vegetables and young seedlings
- Reduces need for traps or chemical repellents
- Long-term solution with minimal upkeep
- Humane and safe for wildlife and pets
If your garden is frequently visited by burrowing animals, a buried fence is a smart investment in both productivity and peace of mind.
Step 1: Identify Your Target Pests
Different small animals dig to different depths. Knowing what you’re up against helps determine the correct burial depth and material.
Common Garden Burrowers:
- Rabbits: Shallow diggers, usually under 12 inches
- Groundhogs: Deeper burrowers, up to 18–24 inches
- Voles and moles: Shallow tunnelers but persistent
- Skunks: Opportunistic diggers near compost or fruit areas
Once you know the target pests, you can tailor the depth and type of barrier for effective protection.
Step 2: Choose the Right Fence Materials
Choosing the correct materials ensures durability and effectiveness against chewing and digging.
Recommended Materials:
- Hardware cloth (galvanized, 16–19 gauge)
- Mesh size: ¼ inch for voles and mice, ½ inch for rabbits
- Welded wire fencing
- Use in combination with hardware cloth for above-ground structure
- Wooden or metal posts
- For structural support spaced every 6–8 feet
- Shovel, post driver, wire cutters, staples or zip ties
Avoid using chicken wire, as it rusts quickly and openings are often too large to block small pests effectively.
Step 3: Plan the Fence Layout
Measure the perimeter of your garden to calculate how much fencing and hardware you’ll need. Include extra footage for bends, gates, or terrain changes.
Layout Tips:
- Create a closed loop with no gaps at corners or edges
- Include a gate with the same buried protection if needed
- For raised beds, consider lining the underside of the bed with hardware cloth as well
- Choose a dry, clear day for digging to make installation easier
Mark the perimeter with stakes and string before digging begins to ensure a straight, consistent fence line.
Step 4: Dig the Trench
The trench is the foundation of your underground fence. The depth depends on which animals you are keeping out.
Suggested Depths:
- Rabbits: 6–12 inches
- Groundhogs: 18–24 inches
- Voles/Moles: 12 inches minimum
- Skunks: 12–18 inches
Use a trenching shovel or spade to dig a narrow trench along the entire perimeter. Keep the excavated soil close by for easy refilling after the fence is placed.
Step 5: Shape the Wire into an L-Barrier
To stop digging effectively, the buried section of the fence should be shaped into an L-configuration.
How to Do It:
- Bend the bottom 6–12 inches of the hardware cloth outward at a 90-degree angle
- This creates a horizontal apron that blocks digging animals
- Place the bent section flat at the bottom of the trench, facing away from the garden
- The vertical part will extend up from the trench and above ground
This L-shape prevents animals from finding an edge to dig under, effectively creating a physical stop.
Step 6: Install the Fence and Posts
Now it’s time to secure the fence vertically and bury the underground portion.
Installation Steps:
- Unroll the hardware cloth and press the L-section flat into the trench base
- Attach the vertical portion to your posts using fence staples, U-nails, or zip ties
- Overlap panels by at least 6 inches to prevent gaps
- Hammer posts every 6–8 feet for support and tension
- For tall fencing, attach an additional welded wire layer above for deer or large pests
- If using a gate, be sure the base has the same buried mesh extending beneath it
Keep the vertical fence taut and wrinkle-free for the cleanest installation.
Step 7: Backfill the Trench
Once the mesh is secured, backfill the trench with the excavated soil.
Tips for Backfilling:
- Press down the soil firmly to prevent sagging or shifting
- Avoid creating gaps near corners—animals often test these weak points
- For extra protection, add rocks or gravel over the horizontal apron before backfilling
- Water lightly to help the soil settle naturally and compact
The fence should now be both visually appealing and functionally secure.
Step 8: Maintain and Inspect Regularly
Even a well-installed fence needs occasional checks to stay effective.
Maintenance Checklist:
- Inspect for chewed wires, pulled staples, or rust once a month
- After heavy rains, check for erosion exposing the buried mesh
- Clear grass or soil buildup along the base that might cover or weaken the barrier
- Watch for digging activity near corners and reinforce if needed
- Touch up with galvanized spray if the coating wears off
Proper upkeep ensures your buried fence remains impenetrable through every growing season.
Optional Add-Ons for Extra Protection
If your garden is in a high-pressure wildlife area, consider combining your buried fence with additional deterrents.
Add-Ons to Consider:
- Electric fence strand along the top to deter climbing
- Motion-activated sprinklers to scare persistent intruders
- Reflective tape or predator eyes to ward off curious animals
- Raised beds with lined undersides for double protection
- Mulch or gravel skirts over the buried apron for camouflage
These enhancements can provide additional layers of defense without requiring significant changes to your fence structure.
Conclusion
Installing a buried garden fence is one of the most reliable and humane ways to keep small animals out of your garden. By digging a trench, using high-quality hardware cloth, and shaping the barrier in an L-configuration, you create a physical wall that rabbits, groundhogs, voles, and moles simply cannot bypass.
With proper planning, installation, and ongoing inspection, your underground fence will last for years and protect everything from delicate seedlings to mature vegetables. It’s a sustainable, chemical-free solution that supports a healthy garden and a balanced ecosystem.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
How deep should I bury my garden fence to stop rabbits?
Rabbits can be deterred by burying your fence at least 6 to 12 inches deep. Use ½ inch hardware cloth for best results.
Can groundhogs dig under fences?
Yes. Groundhogs are strong diggers and may tunnel as deep as 2 feet. A buried fence with a horizontal L-barrier is the best solution.
Will voles and moles chew through plastic mesh?
Yes. Always use galvanized metal hardware cloth with mesh size no larger than ¼ inch to block small rodents.
Can I install a buried fence in rocky soil?
Yes, but it may take more time. Use a pickaxe or trenching tool to work around large stones, and secure the mesh between rocks for continuity.
How long does a buried garden fence last?
If installed properly with galvanized mesh, it can last 10 years or more. Avoid moisture build-up and inspect yearly for corrosion or wear.