Whether you have purchased a composting unit, or made your own, you need to make sure you have a flat, well drained place in your garden - not so far away that you cannot be bothered trudging there, from the kitchen. Compost bins should not be placed on concrete, patio areas etc. as you want to allow the insects and worms access, as mentioned previously.
Also, choose a site which suits your climate. Warmth and moisture helps the composting process, so place your compost in a place which receives a fair amount of sunlight; and shelter from the wind if you live in a cooler climate, if in a hotter climate, ensure you give it shade to prevent it drying out.

How Long Will it Take to Become Compost?

This is dependant on a number of variables: weather, balance and management.
Weather: as dicussed previously :"Warmth and moisture helps the composting process, so place your compost in a place which receives a fair amount of sunlight; and shelter from the wind if you live in a cooler climate, if in a hotter climate, ensure you give it shade to prevent it drying out."
Balance: This concerns - just what you put in there; and how you do it. If you were to dump a couple of wheel-barrow loads of one type of material, barriers are formed ; and there is no longer an exchange of moisture, nutrient, or macro and micro-biology. I am certain we have all seen what happens with a large pile of grass-clippings - it forms mats of noxious ’stuff’. What you are actually looking for is a mixture of everything, a bucket of kitchen scraps, then a bag of leaves, some prunings, a catcher of grass, couple of spades of soil; then more kitchen scraps and so on. More like as not - you will not have all of these things to hand at the one time, this is where Management comes into play.

Management: You can - just chuck stuff in there, leave it, and let nature take its course. This is called a cold compost. It will still turn into compost - just take a bit longer to happen. This is fine if you’re not in a hurry, generally though, once you start producing compost - it just never happens fast enough! In order to speed up the process, a heap needs periodic turning. by this I mean - that which was on the bottom of the pile should now be on the top, or there-abouts. This is not a simple task of just flipping it over - if you can do that, your heap is not big enough.
Starting at the top of the heap, remove the top 8 inches or so and put it aside - this being the most recent addition and therefore the least composted. Then dig out the whole heap - any old how, it doesn’t matter, there is no need for neatness. Now, place that which was on the top - on the bottom of what is now the start of your new heap. The rest of the heap now goes back in, on top of that. There we have a new and revitalised heap.
What has happened here is quite simply - mixed the heap. As each shovel-full is taken out , mixing occurs, then as each shovel-full is thrown back in - even more mixing. It is a fact and luckily so, that you would never be able to replace the heap exactly as you found, even if you tried. Bits from the top and sides fall in, one time you may take from this side, the next time the other, big bits and small bits get all mixed up, leaves mixed with soil, soil with prunings; and so on. I would ordinarily do this once, when the heap is half-full; then again when it is full. If you can get it, the addition of horse, cow, sheep or chicken manure, at each turning, will make for a really rich compost.

Now That I’ve Got Compost - What Do I Do With it?

Spread it around the garden, dig it into the veggie plot, use it as a potting mix. No matter where you use your compost, it will only improve the health and general well-being of you garden. The follow-on benefits of this are: healthier and stronger plants - less open to pest and disease; a greater root-mass - allowing plants to withstand extremes of weather; better tasting fruit and vegetables; more flowers; bit of exercise; less waste - you have taken responsibility for your own rubbish; the benefits to the environment cannot be dismissed - you haven’t played an enormous part - but you have done your bit.
O.K. You have made your first compost!
This is when you come to realise - you just can’t seem to make enough of it!

You have a number of choices, here. A compost bin, box, tumbler, trench or heap - all will work, its a matter of personal preference. Let us look.
Compost Bin. This can be made out of just about anything; discarded 44gal. drums are good, provided they are clean of petro-chemicals; plastic cherry-bins are ideal. For the most part, it needs to be big enough that you could climb into it. Cut off the top and bottom - keep one of these for the lid. Make a number of ‘breathing-holes’ around the shell - these can be either cut or drilled through. A plastic rubbish bin will do. Once again, cut off the bottom, make holes in the side - then turn it upside-down, so that the wider opening sits on the ground. The idea of no bottom, is to allow the insects, worms and micro-organisms which help degradation of your waste materials the freedom to migrate into and out of your compost.
Compost Box. This can be made out of anything you have to hand, be it old pallets, bricks, or spare lumber. Bales of hay work quite well - the hay ultimately becoming compost itself.
Plastic Composters. There are a number of plastic composters available, stand alone units and tumblers. These are made of a special grade plastic that ‘breathes’. A tumbler, is a compost bin, turned on its side; and with the aid of a crank handle, is turned a quarter turn every couple of weeks or so - effectively mixing the compost for you. The is one draw-back with these, though - the tendency to turn it too often, or really crank-it-up; then you end up with this glutinous ball, not much good for anything.
Trenching. This is quite an old-fashioned way of composting, but certainly worth discussing. A trench is dug, about double spade-width, the soil left on the side of the trench. All your waste is placed at the start of the trench, without spreading it out - the soil left on the side, is then back-filled over the material you have just placed in there. Then, the next-time you have more material, it is placed at what is now the start of the trench; and back-filled again. When you have run out of trench - start a new one. This is actually a good way to revitalise vegetable gardens, ordinarily made in bed-rows. An entire row is dug out and becomes the trench, filled with organic material, back-filled; and left to its own devices for about 6 months - then turned over and made ready for planting again.
Compost Heaps. A compost heap, is just that - a heap of compost material. However, the whole process will work much better, if it is managed a bit. By this I mean ‘caging’ it. Using 4 to 6 stakes or pickets hammered into the ground, in a vague circle; chicken-wire, sparrow-wire, or arc-mesh is then formed around them, creating an open-ended cage. Large sheets of cardboard can be used; and will eventually decompose, too. Black sheet plastic can also be used as a surround, but it tends to deteriorate and tear, fairly quickly - then you have to get rid of it some way. Back to the dump, oh,dear.
The basic idea of all these designs can be seen here.
Worm Farms. An alternative to composting in the traditional sense is vermi-composting or worm-farms. These use a special kind of worm to break down kitchen scraps producing a fine compost-like material from their casts, or leavings; and a nutrient filled liquid plant food which is ideal for feeding indoor pot plants. If you have a greenhouse, or have a lot of houseplants then a worm-farm may be the best choice for the disposal of household waste. These can be constructed by the home gardener, or store bought. There are some marvelous small, neat units quite suitable for people living in apartments,too.
There is a unit suitable for outside gardens shown here

Part 3: How Long Will it Take to Become Compost?

Compost is the end result of the decomposition of organic material, or waste. This occurs naturally in the bush , or a forest, by the accumulation of debris from plant and animal material; and provided there is moisture present, either from rain, in the soil, or from the material itself, decomposition will occur.
With the assistance of microbes, bacteria, fungus, insects and worms - the organic matter is consumed, or broken-down, gently mixed, with the assistance of the worms and insects; and ultimately, transformed into an organically rich substance - readily assimilable by plants : the perfect fertiliser. In this natural setting, the actual transformation from raw material to compost, can take quite some time - as the process is reliant on the vaguaries of the climate and the availability of material.
Compost in urban environs, uses the same principles, with the added bonus of things being managed; and therefore a quicker process.

The Urban Composter.

How do I Make Compost?

Composting at home, is basically a means of Recycling the organic waste that a household produces. Kitchen and garden waste, makes up about 30% of all land-fill; this is where the smell from rubbish dumps comes from - organic material rotting. Unlike a compost, which is, organic material decomposing, with the help of microbial and worm action breaking it down.
A well balanced compost heap - does not smell!

If you could pile up all the discarded kitchen and garden waste, coming out of an average suburban home in a year - you would not be able to see over it. Does it not make more sense to return all of this back into your garden, rather than adding to the urban over-abundance of garbage tragedy? Some local councils are now supplying garden-waste-bins, collected just the same way as ordinary garbage, but then dumped at enormous compost-farms; and ultimately sold off as bagged compost and potting-mix.
When you add in the environmental costs, of adding new landfill sites, road transport emissions from ferrying all this waste around; and potential incineration, with the fumes that release into the environment - advantages of composting are clear, whether done on an individual basis, or commercially.

So! All your garden-waste, this is : lawn-clippings, any soft prunings (nothing too woody, nothing diseased); all leaves- from the roof-gutters, raked up leaves, swept up leaves; most weeds; and all spent annuals from last season.
Household waste : from the kitchen; all vegetable scraps; left-over meals (no meat, fish or dairy products - this will only stink and attract unwanted pests and vermin);egg-shells, egg-cartons; coffee-grounds and tea-bags; hair - from the brush, from the dog, from cutting hair; all floor sweepings; ash from the fire-place; whatever is in the vaccum bag; shopping dockets and paper-bags - pretty much, anything organic. Any large cardboard boxes, or large quantities of news-papers, worn out sheets and blankets - do not burn them, use them as mulch.

Part 2: Where do I put all this ’stuff’?

Below you will find a list of some pieces of equipment which many gardeners simply cannot live without:

1. Trowel.

A trowel is a small shovel or spade-like tool, which is used to cultivate soil and plant small plants and seedlings. There are many styles to choose from and type of handle depends on your personal comfort and will determine how well it works. Easy grip, non-slide and non-slip grips are popular forms of handles, These will be easier to use and will require less work than any other form of trowel. Try one out in your hand first to ensure it feels comfortable. A wooden handle is just fine.

2. Garden Fork

A fork is a gardening tool which has 2-6 prongs and a handle of about half a metre. The sizes of forks vary, depending on what they are being used for. The space between each prong varies as well. Forks are used to separate, lift and throw loose pieces of material such as dirt and leaves. Particularly useful for cultivating larger areas of the garden, such as new beds or vegetable gardens. Pitchforks, on the other hand are generally used for ‘pitching’ hay.

3. Garden Spade

A gardening spade has a handle similar to that of the fork and has a flat blade. This tool is used to dig up and move pieces of dirt from one place to another., dig holes and the like.

3. Shovel.

A Shovel is primarily used for digging large holes, such as post-holes, and for moving large quantities of material, such as soil, or gravel, etc.

4. Pruning Shears.

Pruning shears, or secateurs, look something like a cross between a pair of pliers and a pair of scissors. This gardening tool allows gardeners to precisely prune rose bushes and other plants and unruly vines, etc. It is also used to trim and remove dead leaves, or branches, or flowers. There is no other piece of gardening equipment which can do the same job as pruning shears, as far as versatility and ease of use are concerned. Always invest in good quality pruning shears. Good ones have a lifetime guarantee and cheap ones will fall apart before you know it. Just don’t bother.

5. Wheelbarrow.

A wheelbarrow is probably the largest piece of garden equipment you will ever aquire. It is a deep bellied or sided cart with two handles and at least one wheel, which is designed for easy transportation of materials, such as soil, gravel or mulch, from one place to another. Purchasing a wheelbarrow will save you a lot of time and effort, especially if you are a keen compost heap maker, and will make your gardening experience less like hard work.

There are many pieces of gardening equipment which will make this hobby easier and more efficient, however the ones listed above are recognized as the most important. These pieces of equipment will likely last a very long time.

Absolute Nonsense!

Quite possibly, this is the most forgiving hobby there is. The BIG thing to remember about plants is, they will not instantly die on you. You have a lot of leeway here. Plants will alert you to the fact that something is wrong, by the sheer fact they start to look sad. This gives you time to DO something about it. Unlike most other hobbies, where, if you forget to do something - the whole project may well fall to pieces before your eyes.

Gardening, being such a popular passtime, and with all the latest alternative or organic information we have to hand, gardening as a natural science is fun to learn about and rewarding in the extreme…

Produce your own fruit and veg - do less shopping and re-introduce yourself to the taste of REAL produce.

Keep it organic!- think globally, act locally.

Stay fit and healthy with exercise and fresh air. Gardening is good for the soul too.

Spend quality time outside with the family - in the garden.

Be creative, experiment with new garden designs and plantings.

When you start gardening, a funny thing happens - you LEARN - whether you want to, or not, knowledge just seeps in and before you know it , you will find that you actually - KNOW things.

Shall we begin?

Take your time. Look at your proposed garden area, contemplate it. Do not think for a moment, that you are going to do this in a day. That will only lead to disappointment - and you may as well just go straight back inside and turn the telly on. Take a little time, do a little planning. Don’t take too long, though, keep up the enthusiasm or ideas may begin to fade.

What would you like to have in your garden? Colour, shade, somewhere to sit that is shady and colourful? Somewhere to entertain, or for the kids to play?

Something like…a….

……..butterfly patch

……..water feature, oh, nice.

……..a patch of wildflowers

……..herb garden, right near the kitchen there.

……..Gotta have a vegetable garden!

Better have a shed, too, to store your tools. Where would that be best placed? Don’t waste a sunny position for a garden shed. Sheds don’t need the sun, but your garden does!

Some garden furniture? Somewhere pleasant, like near the jasmine, or the herbs? Personally, I like to sit smack-bang in the middle, where I can see everything; and contemplate what is going on.

If you can afford it, buy your garden structures and furniture, first; and position them where you think they should be. Then create your garden around them. That is another reason I put my benches and seats in the middle - I fan out from there, giving an enormous illusion of expansion, as I go.

If you cannot afford the big stuff, to begin with - merely, leave spaces large enough for where they will go, as you acquire them; and continue with the rest..

If you are just starting out, into the world of gardening - start small. By this I mean: do as much as you are comfortable doing. If this is planting only one thing, then planting one thing is all you do. Never overdo it, as you will find your enthusiasm for the project waning, if not utterly vanishing at the thought of getting out there again. Remember - this is NOT a race!

Other things that come into this consideration are:

Are you going to invite other members of the family to ‘help’? The old adage ‘more hands make lighter work’; is certainly true, but not much fun if no-one really wants to play.

How much time do you actually have, to be playing in the garden? Are you reasonably healthy enough for the task?

The weather must be taken into consideration,too. If you are mucking about in the rain, you will actually do more damage than good - to the garden. Like-wise , if you are slogging around in a heat-wave, you will do more damage than good - to your health.

Gardening should be treated as a continuation, an evolution if you like, of your hobby, rather than a chore that has ‘gotta be done’, like painting the house, or somesuch.

Plants are continuously growing and changing the shape and feel of your garden. You can just let it grow as it will, all higgeldy-piggeldy and wild, or you can just as well hack it back when it becomes less than polite! It will come back. Gardens are very forgiving.

An uncommon secret about growing a garden is that - plants grow, whether you are there or not. It is easier to kill a plant with kindness, than it is to with neglect.