Archive for October, 2008

Rose Gardening

Thursday, October 9th, 2008

A rose is said to be a symbol of love. For generations, the rose has been the most popular flower known not only for its beauty for the significance it holds. There are so many varieties and different colors of roses. Rose gardening is perhaps the most popular among all flower lovers. You need to take care of your garden in all seasons to make sure that your flowers remain as beautiful as it should be.

You should keep in mind some things if you want to keep your rose garden healthy.

Planting:

Before planting your plant, you should first check the soil and the location. Always select a sunny, well-drained location. Remember to trim off all broken and bruised roots and cut top growth back to 6 to 8 inches. Dig planting holes at least 6 inches deeper than needed for the plant roots. The holes should be large enough to accommodate roots without crowding or bending, and then place a handful of small rocks or pebbles in the bottom of holes to facilitate drainage. Mix about 1 tablespoonful of fertilizer with the soil placed over the drainage material. Cover this mixture with plain soil, bringing the level to desired planting depth. Make a mound in the center to receive plant and set plant roots over this mound, spread the roots and fill in with soil. Firm the soil tightly 2 or 3 times while filling the hole.

Feeding:

There are different types of roses and all need different care and attention. Some are winter roses; some are summers and some spring roses.

Hybrid Tea, Polyantha, Floribunda Types: For these types of roses the first feeding comes in early spring as soon as the leaf buds begin to swell. You should clean the mulch and work plant food into soil around the plant. Use about 1 tablespoonful of fertilizer per plant. Then comes the second feeding which should be made at the same rate and immediately following the first heavy bloom. The third feeding is done in late summers and should also be made at the same rate. You should follow a regular monthly feeding program during the growing season to get good results.

Tea Roses: The same procedure is followed for this type also but the amount of fertilizer used is a bit more. Here you should use one half of the above amounts, applying in a similar manner and at the same times.

Hybrid Perpetual, Climbing, Shrub Roses: For these types about 1 tablespoonful of fertilizer is used to each square foot of space around the bush in early spring. When blooms start to appear the plants are to be fed again. In both cases work the fertilizer lightly into the soil to within 4 inches of the plant.

Diseases and Pests:

Fungal infections are common in roses. Early summer is when fungus most commonly appears on roses. Black-spots appear on the flower. Insects, such as aphids, thrips, and red spider, are some of the insects that cause problems. Control is easy and prevention is practical with the regular use of chemicals that controls most fungus diseases and chewing and sucking insects. Neem oil product is not only rated for fungal diseases, it will control spider mites and pest insects, as well. Regular dusting every week or 10 days will make the disease-insect problem easy to handle.

Keeping in mind these points will help you take care of your rose garden, free from insects and diseases. Of course who wouldn’t want to show off their beautiful garden. The time and effort you put will definitely not go wasted.

Jeffrey Meier of Jam727 Enterprises at http://www.Jam727.com offers information and Articles of interest. Learn about Rose gardening with Rose Secrets Revealed

Gardening – Lawn Maintenance Chores Part I

Wednesday, October 8th, 2008

In this article we’re going to cover some common law maintenance chores for keeping your lawn in tip top shape.

There are basically three types of lawns; high maintenance for those who need to show their lawn off to the whole neighborhood, medium maintenance for your average lawn and finally low maintenance which is basically just doing the bare minimum so that the town doesn’t fine you for having grass as tall as trees.

Believe it or not, only about 2% of lawns fall into the first category. Not too many people are so fanatical that they have to have a lawn that is good enough to have the Queen of England over to see. About 60% of your lawns fall into the middle of the road range and finally the remainder 38% are lawns that you’d be ashamed to show to your worst enemy. Yes, there are a lot of lazy people out there when it comes to lawn care.

To determine which category you want to fall in you have to ask yourself two basic questions. How much time do I have and how much money do I want to spend? Once you’ve decided on a budget and how lazy or not so lazy you want to be that will determine the type of maintenance program that you’re going to dive into. If you’re thinking of a velvety putting green lawn then you are looking at very high maintenance. If you want your lawn just to be healthy then you are looking at a medium maintenance program, and if all you care about is not getting fined by the town then low maintenance is for you. However, this will not make you very popular with your neighbors. Of course you can always go with some kind of ground cover instead of grass and pretty much rid yourself of chores altogether.

Since most people will fall into the medium maintenance category, we’ll focus on that first. To do what is considered medium maintenance on your lawn you’re going to have to devote about 1 to 3 hours a week of your time to taking care of your lawn. The best grass type to choose would be a mix of creeping red fescue and Kentucky bluegrass, and maybe a perennial ryegrass. The Kentucky blue is quite resistant to drought and will form an attractive, thick carpet of dark blueish green. It’s really nice to look at and not expensive. These types of grass will provide a good base and stand up well to lots of traffic. Plus, ryegrass is not a fast grower so you won’t have to mow it a lot. Also, you won’t have to water very often.

For most people your medium maintenance lawn is the best choice and a nice happy medium between going overboard and letting your lawn go to pot. This plan will save you time, energy, chemical use and water. And the good thing is, with proper care your lawn will tolerate a lot of abuse from the environment. Even with a lot of wear and tear you’ll still have a healthy attractive lawn. It may not be fit for the Queen of England but it will be more than good enough for the neighbors, and the town.
Remington Mower

In future articles we’ll go into a more in depth look at maintaining your lawn, whichever plan you choose.

——————————————————- Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Gardening ——————————————————-

Gardening for Wildlife

Wednesday, October 8th, 2008

“If it were possible for every person to won a tree and to take care of it, the good results would be beyond estimation” L.H. Bailey

Perhaps the most beneficial way an urban homeowner can help wildlife is to create a backyard wildlife habitat. Your backyard can be beautiful as well as being attractive to wildlife. Any yard, large or small, can be improved to attract more wildlife. The most natural and economical way to do this is by selecting the right plants. Nectar-seekers, such as hummingbirds and butterflies, require flowering plants, which provide nectar.

As with any long-term project, the best way to start is by planning your garden. Determine what wildlife is presently using your yard and decide those, which are likely to frequent it. You can create suitable habitats and garden designed specifically to attract butterflies; all it requires is a little careful planning to include favored blooming plants. Even planting a few important shrubs will help. You will benefit from many hours of watching these creatures visit your yard.

Five Steps for Success:

1. Decide how much time, expense and effort you want to invest in your butterfly habitat project. A successful habitat will require more than one season of planting. Howe much area will be devoted to butterflies? These considerations need to be resolved to give you the direction for a successful project.

2. Know how to manage plants. There are two methods of managing plants to attract butterflies. One is to provide favorites nectaring blooms. The other is to include “preferred” larval food plants to nourish the caterpillars. This second method is optional, but provides far better results. By providing larval food plants and nectar blossoms, you increase your chances of attracting butterflies.

3. Know what you have. You can only expect to attract butterflies that already exist in your area, so begin by identifying the butterflies sighted in your yard and list the plants they visit. Field Guides are very helpful with identification.

4. Know the feeding requirements of caterpillars. Larval food plants are important for female butterflies to lay eggs on. Young caterpillars require specific plants to feed on. In order to encourage caterpillars by supplying food plants, it is important to know specific plants and where they should be placed. This is not as difficult as it sounds; some butterflies require only a weed patch to rear their young. Field Guides can give you the basic information you need to start your project.

If you are interested in attracting butterflies to your garden, but are worried that it may be a large and complicated procedure, relax! Gardening is for peace of mind. Your escape for the work and worries of everyday life. This is just another part of your garden. Nobody is going to grad your work, and there are no deadlines. Read and observe from your favorite chair, site in your garden, and look around you as you tend your plants. Attracting butterflies is a step-by-step process and covers any time period you choose. There are many plants that can help you:

Shrubs:

Butterfly Bush (Buddleia) Caryopteris Beauty Bush Syringa Viburnum Bush Clematis

Perennials:

Catnip (Nepeta) Lavender Shasta Daisy Asclepias Aster Yarrow Iberis Liatris Veronica

In 1985, Briscoe White opened The Growers Exchange in an abandoned Texaco station on a busy urban street corner in Richmond, Virginia. The facility has grown over the years, and is now 5 distinct growing environments with 5 acres under cover. Briscoe has over 25 years of gardening experience. For further information on gardening products or gardening tips please contact Briscoe White at bwhite@thegrowersexchange.com.

Gardening In The Shade

Wednesday, October 8th, 2008

If you are fortunate enough to have the opportunity to garden in the shade beneath the canopy of mature shade trees you will find many advantages not found in the full sun garden. Shade trees moderate temperatures during the hot summer months and provide gardens with structure, privacy and year-round interest. Shade gardens are generally easier to maintain than gardens in the sun since there is less watering involved and fewer weeds to pull. Shade is essential to the comfort of people and plants alike. The number of plants which can grow in the shade is enormous; in fact many plants would do well with at least some protection from full exposure to the sun.

The first thing to do when planning a shade garden is to survey the area. Observe the space over the course of a few days to see what type of shade there is. Also, take note of the trees that are creating the shade and what condition are they in. There are three types of shade; dappled, part shade and deep shade. Understanding the characteristics of each is important when choosing plants for your garden. While there are many advantages to gardening in at least some shade, deep shade conditions can be difficult. Only once you know the type of shade your dealing with should you begin selecting plants
for your garden.

Dappled shade perhaps is the easiest type of shade in which to garden. It occurs beneath deciduous trees where there are drastic changes in the amount of sunlight reaching the ground throughout the year alternating between a patchwork of shade and sun in the summer and full sun during winter after the trees drop their leaves. Many shade tolerant plants, such as trillium, epimedium, anemone and various bulbs have adapted to these conditions by flowering in the spring while there is still quite a bit of light entering the garden.

Part shade occurs as the sun moves across the sky. It creates situations such as full sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. Only the most sun loving plants will fail to survive in part shade conditions. It’s perfect for those plants which tolerate sun but little shade. Afternoon shade in this situation is quite beneficial to plants as it will protect them from the sun during the hottest part of the day. If the opposite is true, shade in the morning and sun in the afternoon, some plants will tend to look stressed as the coolness of morning shade gives way to full sun during the hottest part of the day.

Deep shade occurs beneath evergreens or in narrow spaces between tall buildings and can be a challenging environment in which to garden. Soil beneath evergreens is usually poor due to the lack of an annual leaf fall which in deciduous forests provides layers of organic mulch. Plants selected for deep shade gardens need to be shade loving not just shade tolerant. When choosing your plants, remember there’s a big difference between plants which can survive in the shade and those which thrive in it. Summersweet (clethera), for example, thrives in the shade and will grow full and lush while rhododendrons will end up looking scrawny in the deep shade but healthy in dappled shade.

When planting in deep shade, beneath the canopy of evergreens, adding compost to the garden will increase nutrients and the soil’s ability to retain water. Before you begin planting, look up to see if there are any branches which could pruned to allow dappled sunlight into the garden. Though there are many wonderful shade loving plants available, it may necessary to selectively prune the surrounding trees to allow at least some sun into the space.

Many plants which thrive in the shade, such as hosta, have developed large leaves and interesting foliage as a way for the plant to capture as much sunlight as possible. In the summer the foliage of shade plants becomes the focal point of the garden. Variegated foliage adds splashes of brightness and the illusion of light among the sea of green. Use different shades of green throughout the garden as well. Bright yellow greens illuminate a shady space and deeper blue greens create a feeling of depth, making a space feel larger than it is. Remember, colors appear different in the shade. In full sun colors can seem washed out, in the shade they are vibrant and more intense. Try to unify the garden by repeating interesting patterns of color, texture and form.

While there are few annuals and grasses which will do well in shady conditions, there a number of shrubs, perennials, ferns and bulbs which provide virtually unlimited planting opportunities. From spring blooming bulbs and complex displays of foliage during the summer to winter evergreens and early flowering shrubs, shade gardens offer year round gardening joys and far more possibilities and rewards than any other type of garden.

T Hallinan is a landscape designer and builder in Massachusetts. Visit his garden resource website http://www.gardenlistings.com for all kind of helpful information. For more garden guides visit http://www.gardenlistings.com/resources.htm

Gardening Books on the Internet

Tuesday, October 7th, 2008

Are you a gardening enthusiast? Have you ever gone to a book store to find a particular gardening book only to be bombarded by shelf upon shelf of books on every type of gardening imaginable except the one that you really want? How about the internet? You’ve heard that it’s a good place to find information, so you laboriously turn on your computer and enter whatever keywords you have into whatever search engine you fancy, and you’re bombarded by information. Again.

The solution? Simple really when you come to think about it. No, not buying out the whole bookstore. Not even finding some willing victim to trawl through those web pages for you, although that does sound like a good idea. All you have to do is write your own gardening book!

I know, I know, that sort of defeats the purpose of your trying to find the information you need for yourself. But just think of all those lost souls, wandering out there in a daze searching with mounting despair through the same maze of information that you yourself searched through only days before.

You probably think that you’re unable to write, but hey, if you can string two sentences together in a manner pleasing to read, and you can capture the attention of your audience, then you’ve got it made!

You don’t know enough to write a gardening book? I don’t believe that! If you’re an honest-to-goodness gardening fanatic, then likely as not, you’ve been gardening for most of your life. You must remember digging up your mother’s nice neat flower beds to see exactly ‘how it worked’! So, you’ve got the requisite experience necessary to write more than one gardening book.

Now what? Well, now it’s all a matter of finding someone to cook your meals and remind you to eat regularly while you expound to the world at large, or in this case, your word processor, your views on gardening. You won’t need to be reminded to water your garden, because conscientious gardener that you are, that’ll be the last thing that you forget. Besides, it would not look too good to let your garden wither away while you’re writing a gardening book!

And afterwards what do you do? Well, you could always start on a sequel, because really you did not do justice to all that could be mentioned in a gardening book. Or, you could just sit back in your easy chair, a mimosa in your hand, the drink, not the flower, and reap the benefits of your very own gardening book. As for that little nugget of information that you were so desperately searching for in the beginning? Well it turns out that you really knew more than you thought you did, and it too, is now in your gardening book.

Quentin Williams is the author of The Gardener’s Handbook. Learn the steps to creating your dream garden at http://www.gardeners.quentsinfo.com

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