Archive for the ‘Lawn’ Category

Gardening Tips and Tricks for Late Fall

Wednesday, October 7th, 2009

Preparing for the Winter Months: Gardening in October

When you feel that first solid bite in the breeze and you see the songbirds winging their way south, and the trees are bursting with fire-laden hues, you know you can’t be spending the weekend curled up by the fireplace with a good book. Not for long.

While the weather is still gardener-friendly, you must shorten your “to-do” lists for the coming of late fall and early winter. Now is the time to attack your lawn and garden by planting your spring bulbs, buying and maintaining your trees and shrubs, doing your late autumn lawn care, using common-sense watering strategies, building a compost bin and making your own compost, controlling the many common garden pests, and winning at the weed-whacking war before the sudden onset of the fickle, cold and all-enveloping winter season.

Planting Your Perennials
Plant the spring-flowering bulbs until the ground becomes frozen, and prepare your tender but tenacious perennials for the coming seasonal changes. Remember that in the milder climates, bulbs can still be divided and transplanted. Plant hardy bulbs anytime before the soil freezes, but it’s best to plant them early enough so the root systems can grow before winter arrives. In some climates, you can plant until Thanksgiving or even Christmas. Late-planted bulbs develop roots in the spring, and may bloom late. But they’ll arrive on time by next year.

Be sure to position the bulbs at their proper depth. They must be planted so their bottoms rest at a depth two-and-a-half times each bulb’s diameter. In well-drained or sandy soil, plant an inch or two deeper to increase life and discourage rodents.

Choosing Your Trees and Shrubs
October is a wonderful time to shop for trees and shrubs at the nursery. They’re now showing their best and brightest colors there. You can plant them now and over the next few months, so that strong, healthy roots will grow over the winter.

Late Autumn Lawn Care
Aerate lawns in mid- to late-October, while the grass can recover easily. If you core aerate, make your cores three inches deep, spaced about every six inches. Break up the cores and spread them around. If your lawn needs it, thatch and follow with a fall or winter fertilizer. Even if thatching isn’t needed, your lawn will be happy for a dusting of fertilizer to help roots gain strength before the spring growing season. Over-seed bald patches or whole lawns as needed. Rake and compost leaves as they fall, as well as grass clippings from mowing. If left on the ground now, they’ll make a wet, slippery mess that’s inviting to pests.

Watering.
You can’t forget about watering in the middle of fall. The summer’s long over, but proper moisture now is key to your plants’ survival over the cold winter months. You’re likely to hear two pieces of advice on watering. One is that you should give established plants an inch of water per week, whether from rain or irrigation. The other is that personal observation of your own garden is the only way to judge how much water it needs. One fact about which there is more agreement: the ideal is to maintain constant moisture, not a cycle of wet soil followed by dry soil.

Making Your Own Compost
A bin will contain your compost pile and make it more attractive as well as keep it from spilling or blowing over into your yard. A circular or square structure can be made from fencing wire. The idea is to push the compost material together to make it heat up and rot properly. The bin should be at least three feet wide and three feet deep to provide enough space for the spreading material. Use untreated wood or metal fence posts for the corners and wrap sturdy wire fencing around them. The fence mesh should be small enough that rotting materials won’t fall out. When the compost is ready, unwind the wire and scoop from the bottom of the pile. Then re-pile the undecomposed material and wrap the wire back around the heap.

Pest Control
Slugs and other pests don’t disappear as the weather gets cooler. You’ll find them at all life stages in October, from eggs to youngsters and adults. For slugs, use whatever measures you prefer, salt, slug bait or saucers of beer to eliminate them. It’s best to catch them at the early stages to stop the reproduction cycle. And keep the ground well-raked and tidied to reduce their natural habitat.

Weed Whacking
Actually, this is a slight exaggeration. There’s no rest for the wicked. Keep staying ahead of your nasty weeds all this and next month. They serve as Home Sweet Home for all manner of pests and bugs, and destroying them before they flower and seed will save you much work in the future.

Food for Thought
In addition to performing these autumnal lawn and garden duties, you may want to harvest your fall vegetables such as the perennial squashes. Do a taste test and harvest them when flavor is at its peak. If you’d like to extend the harvest of carrots, turnips and other root vegetables, leave some in the ground to mulch as the weather gets colder. Early next month, before temperatures drop too much, seed cover crops such as clover, peas or vetch to enrich the soil. It will serve as a natural fertilizer, stifle weed growth and help loosen up the soil for next year’s crops.

Indoor Plants
As for your houseplants that you’ve put outside for the summer, if September was mild enough that your geraniums and other such plants are still outdoors, be sure to make them cozy inside before the first frost takes a bite out of them. Take geranium cuttings of two to four inches to root indoors. If you treat houseplants chemically, be sure to keep them warm and away from direct sunlight. Fertilize houseplants now and they won’t need it again until March. And remember to get your poinsettias and your Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti ready for well-timed holiday color. Give them a daily dose of ten hours of bright daylight or four hours of direct sun and fourteen hours of night darkness. Cacti need a cool environment of fifty to sixty degrees, while poinsettias prefer a warmer sixty-five to seventy degrees. Be sure and let your cacti dry out between waterings.

For a true gardenaholic, winter is often considered to be the enemy. But with a few steps toward preparation in the early- to mid-fall, you can take care of your lawn, garden and houseplants in a way that will keep them thriving and surviving until the dawning of yet another most welcome and bountiful springtime.

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The information in this article was gleaned from the MSN House and Home website and the Better Homes and Gardens website.RAINBOW WRITING, INC. — featuring Karen Peralta, copy editor, ghost writer and book author –http://www.rainbowriting.com/And for inexpensive solid gold cdroms: fun arcade games, internet, computer and windows learning tutorials, money making ebusiness software and e-books and new cds coming out frequently, check with Four Seasons CDROM Store at http://www.cdrommarket.com/

Robotic Lawn Mowers

Thursday, May 14th, 2009

Everything is automated nowadays. Seems like every manufacturer’s aim in innovating a product is to make it all faster and simpler. Washing and cleaning has been automated since long ago. Now here comes robotic lawn mower. You thought that mowing the lawns was a breeze after those industrial machines came out right? Well, those became obsolete with the entry of these intelligent robotic lawn mowers.

Imagine mowing the lawn right there under the cool shade of your front porch. All you need is to push the button on the remote, look at the robotic lawn mower, and make sure it is right where the grass is thick.

The robotic lawn mower effectively mows lawn of regular size, within its average run time of 1.5 hours. But it depends on the power of the mower, of course. The bigger it is, the longer the run time it will have. It is equipped with a rechargeable battery to power up the blades. The downside though is that the battery needed recharging for 24 hours. Well, that’s an entire day. If your lawn were so big, like an acre big, you’d have to purchase an extra battery for you to be able to mow the entire area in a day.

For the robotic lawn mower to be within the area, you would have to setup a perimeter wire. It’s a special kind of wire that comes with the robot mower. Some wires can be planted underground. This sounds to be a taxing job, but you can do it in less than an hour if you have a relatively small yard. The wires be detected by the robotic lawn mower and then would turn the other way. You wouldn’t want it straying away towards your neighbor’s lawn, would you? With this perimeter fence, you can protect your flowerbeds and garden. Run the wire around it and the robotic lawn mower would leave it alone.

Slopes up to 20 degrees should be tolerable for the robotic lawn mower. Protruding tree roots should not be a problem either. With its robotic blades, the lawn mower would run around the perimeter wires first and proceed to the middle area, moving in a V pattern. This means that the robotic lawn mower might cover a certain area multiple times while missing a certain part several times over. Looking on the bright side, you’re not the one getting tired anyway.

The cost of the robotic lawn mower doesn’t seem to be an issue. It actually costs less than those heavy-duty regular lawn mowers. Given that, if and when you feel that your old trusty lawn mower needs back up or even a replacement, trying the robotic lawn mower might be a good idea.

Robotic lawn mowers sure catch attention. Well, you can always ask your neighbor or pay a kid to trim your lawn, but one way or another, you would have to do it yourself sometimes. And with the robotic lawn mower just waiting for orders at your backyard, lawn mowing would be almost effortless.

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Discover Important Secrets About Brushcutters

Tuesday, April 28th, 2009

An Introduction to brushcutters -

A good brush cutter is invaluable to any homeowner with property that includes areas that are overgrown with shrubs, tall grass or seedlings. There are many types of brushcutters, so when shopping for a new brush cutter it is important to compare options to ensure you get the right brushcutter for your needs.

Types of brushcutters -

Two basic types of brush cutters include the following:

- Hand held brushcutter/trimmer combos
- Walk behind brushcutters and Field mowers

Hand held combos typically have interchangeable heads for using string for grass trimming and blades for brush cutting. Some larger hand held brush cutters have blades that are similar to saw blades, where others have replaceable plastic blades that are more durable than string trimmer string but which are replaced as they wear.

To illustrate some of the features and key differences of these different types of brush cutters, the following are examples of some popular models.

Tanaka commercial grade hand held brush cutter/string trimmer combo -

Tanaka’s commercial grade 47 CC 2.4 hp to stroke gas powered dual handle brush cutter/grass string trimmer is a powerful hand held brush cutter/string trimmer combo. It weighs in at 19.9 pounds. It has a solid steel shaft drive and comes with a BRAIN head and saw blade. For commercial use it has a two-year warranty and homeowners receive a three year warranty. For a handheld machine, this unit will get the job done and more. It sells for $689.99.

Nikita gas powered hand held brushcutter -

The Makita 24.5 cc gasoline powered brush cutter offers a lot for $399.99. It features a mini for stroke brush cutter for delivering maximum power in a lightweight model. This results in increased operator comfort with less fatigue. It’s 1 hp 24.5 cc motor operates quieter and with less environmental impact, and it provides to speeds of 3000 and 7000 rpm. It has a fast starting ignition. The drive shaft is solid steel to deliver more power with lower vibration and a heavy-duty gear case for heavy loads. Makita offers a one year warranty. Customer reviews rate this unit high, citing material and manufacturing to be first rate, good performance in starting right away and cutting extremely well, being durable and lightweight, and the ability to fill up with regular unleaded gas for convenience. Users say this machine has plenty of power and even for tough cutting jobs this equipment won’t let you down.

Swisher self-propelled walk behind brush cutter -

The Swisher predator 24 inch 11.5 hp gas self-propelled brush cutter is a powerful machine representing the walk behind brush cutters or Field mowers. This machine is a real powerhouse. It is ideal for cutting trails in the woods, clearing large fields, or mowing ditches with tall grass. The 24 inch predator brush cutter clears dense undergrowth and saplings that measure up to 1.5 inches diameter. It clears up to two thirds of an acre per hour at the self-propelled walk behind speed. This heavy-duty brush cutting unit has handlebar mounted controls that are ergonomically designed for comfort. It has large pneumatic tires to roll across all-terrain types and a four speed transmission to give power for climbing, smooth cruising, and reverse mode for backing up from trouble spots. Homeowners or professionals with large areas to clear will find this machine fit for the job. It retails at $1389.99 and is currently on sale for $1299.99.

Choosing your brush cutter type -

Now let’s consider what type of brush cutting jobs you will be doing because the various types of cutters have attributes that are better suited for certain types of cutting. If you have large property with fields full of tall grass, for example, or ditches that grow tall leaves which require mowing alongside roads, the walk behind brush cutter is much better suited for your needs. If on the other hand, you have occasional brush cutting needs with small areas and your interest is more oriented toward trimming corners, trimming around trees, trimming around fence posts, etc. then a hand held machine will be more suited for your needs.

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Gardening – Lawn Maintenance Chores Part I

Wednesday, October 8th, 2008

In this article we’re going to cover some common law maintenance chores for keeping your lawn in tip top shape.

There are basically three types of lawns; high maintenance for those who need to show their lawn off to the whole neighborhood, medium maintenance for your average lawn and finally low maintenance which is basically just doing the bare minimum so that the town doesn’t fine you for having grass as tall as trees.

Believe it or not, only about 2% of lawns fall into the first category. Not too many people are so fanatical that they have to have a lawn that is good enough to have the Queen of England over to see. About 60% of your lawns fall into the middle of the road range and finally the remainder 38% are lawns that you’d be ashamed to show to your worst enemy. Yes, there are a lot of lazy people out there when it comes to lawn care.

To determine which category you want to fall in you have to ask yourself two basic questions. How much time do I have and how much money do I want to spend? Once you’ve decided on a budget and how lazy or not so lazy you want to be that will determine the type of maintenance program that you’re going to dive into. If you’re thinking of a velvety putting green lawn then you are looking at very high maintenance. If you want your lawn just to be healthy then you are looking at a medium maintenance program, and if all you care about is not getting fined by the town then low maintenance is for you. However, this will not make you very popular with your neighbors. Of course you can always go with some kind of ground cover instead of grass and pretty much rid yourself of chores altogether.

Since most people will fall into the medium maintenance category, we’ll focus on that first. To do what is considered medium maintenance on your lawn you’re going to have to devote about 1 to 3 hours a week of your time to taking care of your lawn. The best grass type to choose would be a mix of creeping red fescue and Kentucky bluegrass, and maybe a perennial ryegrass. The Kentucky blue is quite resistant to drought and will form an attractive, thick carpet of dark blueish green. It’s really nice to look at and not expensive. These types of grass will provide a good base and stand up well to lots of traffic. Plus, ryegrass is not a fast grower so you won’t have to mow it a lot. Also, you won’t have to water very often.

For most people your medium maintenance lawn is the best choice and a nice happy medium between going overboard and letting your lawn go to pot. This plan will save you time, energy, chemical use and water. And the good thing is, with proper care your lawn will tolerate a lot of abuse from the environment. Even with a lot of wear and tear you’ll still have a healthy attractive lawn. It may not be fit for the Queen of England but it will be more than good enough for the neighbors, and the town.
Remington Mower

In future articles we’ll go into a more in depth look at maintaining your lawn, whichever plan you choose.

——————————————————- Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Gardening ——————————————————-