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The Gardening Brochure – a Gardeners Visionary Tool.

Sunday, April 4th, 2010

Gardening brochures, whether they arrive as a monthly edition, or with each season, glossy or plain paper, are a handy ready-reckoner for planning the coming season’s garden display, access to hard to get plant varieties, and the replacement of worn out-tools or apparel. This is a great time of vision for most gardeners and many idle hours are taken up, traipsing through the garden in the mind. Oh! The possibilities! The imagination can run wild, with what you could do, given the time – and money.

These mini-magazines enable gardeners to buy the necessities for their gardening demands without leaving the comfort of their own home, offering a greater range at less expense, with much less trouble and also have it delivered to your front-door, ready for you use.

Gardening brochures, most of all, are very handy. Should you reside a fair distance from a nursery, or some kind of gardening center, it’s often difficult to acquire all those essentials needed keep your garden in top shape. Let’s face it, in any case -  most gardening centers do not have everything you need for a garden, not to mention the fact that the really large centers can be quite overwhelming.

Let us also not forget, that there is a definite problem of the “I want’s” in big centers, with the plants on show at their best and everything laid out just so. Gardening brochures give you more options and allow you to view everything and more, available as you sit at home, also, you are not assailed by the sensory over-load of all those colours and scents. At least with a brochure, you can take your time in the comfort of your own home (probably still get the “I want’s” though, just not as bad). Whether you are in the market for seeds, plants, protective clothing, or equipment, a gardening brochure is a great alternative to gardening centers.

Gardening brochures really are a valuable hoarde of info for either the newbie or skilled gardener. There is generally in-depth explanations about all available stock, their growth habits and flowering seasons, and also the upkeep needed, whether it be specialised, or generic. Also, information about nutrient requirements and the correct occasions for fertilising, is often included in these mini-magazines.

Gardening catalogues will often provide snippets, ideas and suggestions on things like: mower maintenance; how to control weeds and/or diseases in your garden; succession planting for colour: etc. They can give step-by-step planting instructions, such as: plant positioning; how much sun; and seasonal planting times. Reputable businesses sending these brochures, will wait to deliver your products, until, based on what climate-zone you reside in, the correct planting time arrives.

Many gardening brochures also included gardening equipment, such as roto-tillers, whipper-snippers, etc, although this is generally considered to be a specialist area of gardening supply. Depending on the supplier, if they are only showing soft supplies, or only specialise in plants, a quick enquiry will probably see them forwarding you the information you need. If nothing else, gardening type people are very easy to get along with.

If it’s hydroponics you’re into, although once again a fairly specialised field, most catalogues will probably offer things like: water pumps, tap-timers, artificial illumination, nutrient solutions, etc.

Pruning shears or secateurs, knives, hand tools, and the like are fairly standard items in most brochures. Some have a big choice of gloves, making it possible to find a pair that’s practical if not stylish, likewise a reasonable variety of protective clothing. Often there will be on offer a range of larger garden tools, generally regarded as large disposable items (this means that they will in fact wear out, or break – eventually) hoes, rakes, forks, spades, shovels, hoses, sprinklers, irrigation and drainage systems, etc.

Usually, the selection of seeds is far greater through catalogues, often including those really hard to get varieties. Also, some varieties of plants are rarely put on show in garden centers, say, if they are just too big, or some such. This is where the gardening brochure, really comes into it’s own, imagine, being able to have full-grown trees delivered to your front door.

So, get on a couple of mailing lists and have gardening brochures sent to you, so that you can plan for the next spring from your armchair, with this visionary tool.

 

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Re-planting Pot-Bound and Bare-Rooted Plants.

Tuesday, March 2nd, 2010

If a recently purchased plant comes out of the pot easily and is not root-bound – plant it as is. Don’t worry if some of the soil falls away.

If the potted plant is so new in the container, as to have not yet settled, you may find all the soil falls away from the roots. Do not panic. Firstly, never buy from that retailer again. Then recover the fallen soil, re-mix it in with the new soil or potting-mix, then continue potting.

If after you have removed the pot and the plant is tight with roots, or root-bound, more roots than soil – you need to tease these roots apart before planting. Sometimes you may need to cut the roots, if indeed the plant has been in the pot too long. These roots are cut like you would a melon, then tease the roots apart removing any damaged material. Probably a little hair cut will be in order, too. As the roots have been growing around and around the pot, they can reach quite a length, unsuitable for re-potting.
If you do not do this, the roots may continue to growing as they were doing in the original container. Even though the plant will continue to grow in it’s new pot, it’s growth will be slow if not stunted.

Should you find the plant is pot-bound and in need of some root assistance, once again, you may find yourself with no soil around the roots. Do not panic. Do not buy from that retailer again. AND, do NOT mix those roots and soil back into the new potting-mix. If you include this with the soil being used in re-potting, as those roots inevitably start to rot, this may indeed create problems for any new roots trying to get a foot-hold and rot them too.

All damaged, bleeding, or loose roots should be removed. Either cut them back to the base of the root if heavily damaged, or, in the case of light damage just back to a healthy portion of the root.

In both these cases, including bare-rooted stock, the soil-less roots should be placed, as much as possible, in a fan like arrangement on top of a little hill of soil in the container. Being mindful of the original soil level on the plant and sticking to it, fill and tamp until you get to about an inch from the top of the container.

Water thoroughly, or soak the pot in a bucket of water, to remove any air bubbles.

Using the above information, you should have no trouble with re-planting pot-bound or bare-rooted plants.

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Re-planting Potted Plants Into the Yard

Tuesday, March 2nd, 2010

Pot plants – Out of the Pot Into the Yard

Whenever you bring new plants back after a foray to the gardening shop, or receive them via mail-order, it’s very important to remove them from the packaging immediately. Harmed plant material should be clipped off.

Place the plant in a covered, shady area and water thoroughly. Water should freely to drain from the drain holes within the pot, the potted-plant ought to really feel more substantial, or heavier, right after it has been watered. It is a great idea, a day before planting, to allow the plants roots and soil to fully re-hydrate, and the plant to get used to this new outside environment.

Once you have made a decision, as to wherever you will place the plant in your back garden, excavate a hole at least twice as large as the size of the  existing container. If the specimen is large, or going to be a tree – NOW is the time to bang in a supporting stake for tying the plant to as it gets larger.

You may wish to mix compost or potting soil together with your native earth to reduce transplant shock and improve root growth. Place enough of the mixture in the bottom of the hole that allows you to mix it in with the existing soil, by digging the two together. The amount of soil-mix in the bottom of the hole depends largely, on how big the plant, including it’s root-ball is. You want this level of soil to allow the plant to not be planted too deeply. Be mindful of any grafts, or branching near the root ball, and never have the soil near this!

Carefully remove the plant from its pot. It may assist to tap the pot lightly, upsidedown, on it’s edge, or squeeze its sides, to loosen it from the container.

Put the plant in the hole. Add or remove the soil mixture under the root ball to ensure that the top of the root ball is just below the level of the surrounding soil. Planting too deep can kill the plant!

Once you have positioned the plant to the correct level, you can start back-filling around the plant’s root-ball. Work your soil blend in firmly, not too much, with your fingers between the root ball and the surrounding hole.

When the hole is two thirds full, fill it with water – yes, FILL it. This will assist in eliminating any air bubbles trapped around the roots. The number two killer of newly planted stock is air bubbles around the roots. Waiting until the water has dissipated, back fill with the rest of the soil, right up until you’ve reached just below the surrounding soil level, and lightly tamp, in order to leave a shallow depression around the outermost edge of the hole. This is for subsequent watering.

Complete the planting through the use of a 2″- 4″ inch covering of mulch, stretching the mulch a good 12 inches or more everywhere from the center. Good mulch choices include shredded bark, pine needles, straw, or even stones. Mulch will shield the roots from the hot sun, help keep hold of moisture content, and suppress weed growth.

When you have finished, water thoroughly. You should see the water gathering in that shallow depression you have just made. Follow up with a minimum of weekly watering, until the plant appears to have taken – leaves looking healthy and shiny, if not new leaves.

If leaves display indicators of wilting, but the earth is moist – do not panic. Some plants can take 10 days or more to start becoming established. Be patient. Replanting can be extremely traumatic and sometimes, newly planted stock will sit there and sulk for a bit.

I hope this has helped to answer some of the questions you may have had about Re-planting Potted Plants Into the Yard.

 

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Selecting Plants

Wednesday, November 11th, 2009

One of the first things to consider when choosing a plant for your garden is to determine if it is suitable for your area. Cold hardiness, heat tolerance, and drought tolerance all factor in to successful choices for gardening in your location. The USDA (United States Department of Agriculture) has put together what is called a plant hardiness zone map (use the link at the bottom of the page to view the zone map). The map shows in detail the lowest temperatures that can be expected each year in the United States. The map shows 10 different zones, each of which represents an area of winter hardiness for the plants of agriculture and our natural landscape. It also introduces zone 11 to represent areas that have average annual minimum temperatures above 40 degrees F and that are therefore; essentially frost free. Before purchasing plants find out exactly which zone you live in and purchase plants hardy enough for your zone. Most plants should have a label listing its intended zone. If a plant is not recommended for your zone it’s probably not a good idea to buy it.

Regardless of you projected zone, microclimates vary dramatically within a small area and you may be warmer or colder than the gardener across town or even the gardener down the street.

Before making a plant selection for your garden or patio please remember this word: location. Plants can require different types of soil, light, shade, water, space, and the amount of wind can even play a role. Make sure the location in your garden can provide the proper environment for the plant to flourish.

Bigger doesn’t always mean better. Roots are the most import part of the plant. A good root system will support the rest of the plant and help insure gardening success. Healthy roots may vary in color, size and quantity, but are always firm, not mushy.

Avoid plants root bound in their containers. This is usually associated with plants needing to be transplanted into larger containers. The roots end up growing around in circles and often times will not branch out when transplanted.

You may want to grow plants that are not ideal for your area. You can do so successfully with a little extra care and attention. Extra water, protection, and winter protection will often allow you to bring an expanded selection of plants to your garden.

Cottage Farms Directhttp://www.cottagefarmsdirect.com/index.asp Check us out at http://www.cottagefarmsdirect.com Click here to determine your hardiness zone: http://www.cottagefarmsdirect.com/hardiness.asp

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Planting Bare Roots

Thursday, October 29th, 2009

Bare root plants are easy to handle. They are usually dormant perennials, shrubs, or trees that have been harvested from the field, have had the soil washed from their roots and then have been stored in refrigeration for later shipment. “Bare rooting” a plant is a safe, proven, and much used means of storing and shipping many garden plants. We always recommend that you plant bare root plants as soon as possible, but you can hold them in a refrigerator, unheated garage, or cellar for a short period if necessary. The best time of year for planting bare root plants in the garden is during the winter (if the soil is not frozen) or spring. The arrival of warmer temperatures and longer days cause the plants to wake up naturally from their winter dormancy and help insure gardening success.

Daylilies:
We suggests choosing a garden area that will receive at least four hours of direct sun each day. Spade or roto-till the intended flower bed to a depth of at least 8-10 inches. If you do not have good garden soil, you may want to blend in a generous portion of dehydrated manure, compost, peat moss, or shredded leaves, but daylilies are one of the easiest to grow and most forgiving plants in any garden.

Dig holes at least twice as wide and deep as the bare root divisions. Fashion a small cone-shaped mound of dirt in the center of the hole below ground level. Spread the roots over the mound with no more than 1″ of soil covering the crown (where the leaves and roots meet). For daylilies with emerging green growth, plant any new growth above ground level. Firm the soil around the crown of the plant. We always recommend mulching immediately since mulch shades and cools the soil, helps prevent weeds and provides organic matter for the soil. Water your plants thoroughly after mulching. Daylilies grow best with at least 1-inch of rain (or equivalent watering) each week, but are quite drought tolerant. As soon as new growth emerges begin fertilizing every two weeks throughout the growing season. This will help ensure maximum flowering and root development.

Trees and Shrubs:
First, look the plant over and remove (prune) any broken or damaged limbs or roots. We recommend soaking the roots of the tree or shrub in a bucket of water for 2 to 3 hours prior to planting. When ready for planting, select a site suitable for the plant and dig a hole larger than the roots are wide when they are spread out. If you are planting in poor or clay soils, you may want to mix compost, dehydrated manure, peat moss or shredded leaves with you excavated soil (if you do so, you may have extra soil when you complete the planting – remove excess soil, never pile it against the stem or plant too deep) . In the bottom of the hole form a cone shaped mound of soil. Place the plant’s roots over the mound of soil and spread them evenly around the mound. Before filling the hole with soil, make sure the trees existing soil line will be even with the new ground level. Begin filling the hole with soil, carefully firming the soil around the roots, leaving no air pockets. When the hole is approximately ¾ full of soil fill the hole with water and let it soak in, this will remove any excess air in the soil. Once the water has soaked in make sure the tree is standing straight and finish filling the hole with soil. Form a saucer shaped rim around the outside of the hole. This will allow water to stay within the planting area. To assist a tree or tall shrub in getting anchored, you may want to stake it. As always, we suggest a 2-4-inch layer of mulch around the planting area to promote moisture retention, maintain even soil temperatures, and to discourage weed growth. Water the new transplant generously once every week throughout its first growing season. In later years, at least 1-inch of rain or watering equivalent per week is recommended for most soils. As soon as new growth emerges begin fertilizing every two weeks throughout the growing season. This will help ensure maximum flowering and root development.

Roses:
Prior to planting remove (prune off) any broken roots or canes. We suggest soaking the entire rose plant (roots and canes) for at least 1-2 hours in luke-warm water. Select a location that receives at least four hours of sun each day. Spade or roto-till the intended rose bed to a depth of 12-15 inches. Unless you have good garden soil, we suggest you blend in a generous portion of dehydrated manure, compost, peat moss, or shredded leaves. This will help improve drainage and aeration.

Dig a hole at least twice as wide and deep as the bare roots. Partially fill the hole with the soil mix, making a cone shaped mound in the center of the hole over which to drape the roots. Adjust the height of the mound so the graft union is at the correct level. In warmer climates a rose should be planted so the bud union (a bulge on the stem of the rose plant indicating where the rose plant has been grafted onto the roots) is at or slightly above ground level. In colder climates, the union may be planted up to 2″ below ground level to help reduce the chance for winter die-back. Spread the roots out evenly over the cone shaped mound. Holding the rose at the correct planting depth, fill the hole with soil, working it carefully around the roots. When the hole is approximately ¾ full of soil, fill the hole with water and let it soak in. Once the water has soaked into the soil, make sure the rose is standing straight up and finish filling the hole. Form a saucer shaped rim around the outside of the hole. This will allow water to stay within the planting area. We always suggests a 2-4-inch layer of mulch around the planting area to promote moisture retention, maintain even soil temperatures, and to discourage weed growth. Roses require at least 1-inch of rain (or equivalent watering) each week. As soon as new growth emerges begin fertilizing every two weeks throughout the growing season. This will help ensure maximum flowering and root development.

Irises and other Rhizomes:
Select a good location for the plants being planted in your garden. Irises do well in full sun or partial shade. Spade or roto-till the intended flower bed to a depth of 8-10-inches. If your garden soil poor or is a heavy clay, Cottage Farms suggest you blend in a generous portion of dehydrated manure, compost, peat moss, or shredded leaves into the soil. Dig holes at least twice as wide and deep as the rhizome. Fashion a cone shaped mound of soil in the center of the hole below ground level. Spread the roots over the mound with the top of the rhizome at ground level or slightly exposed. A common mistake is planting Iris rhizomes to deep. Firm in the soil around the rhizome with your fingers and water thoroughly. Again, always apply a 2-4-inch layer of mulch around the planting area to promote moisture retention, maintain even soil temperatures, and to discourage weed growth. Iris perform best with at least 1-inch of rain (or equivalent watering) each week. As soon as new growth emerges begin fertilizing every two weeks throughout the growing season. This will ensure maximum flowering and root development.

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Cottage Farms Direct Check us out at http://www.cottagefarmsdirect.com Click here to determine your hardiness zone: http://www.cottagefarmsdirect.com/hardiness.asp

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