Archive for the ‘Flowers’ Category

Backyard Butterfly Gardening Made Easy

Thursday, October 8th, 2009

What are the implications of Butterfly Gardening? It is basically the method of cultivating plants and flowers in a garden, so that the delicate and bright butterflies are invited to it. Please your relatives and comrades with these lovely insects. However, ascertain that you have a secure home for them. If one has cats, one should reconsider his decisions, for cats may be the cause of the end of butterflies.

Plan a Butterfly Garden according to your private choice. While planning, the common issues to ponder upon are the dimensions of the garden and the kind of flora and vegetation one would like to cultivate. While choosing a garden of your choice, remember that the garden should have the flora and vegetation that invite butterflies.

It is necessary to discover the types of vegetation and flora, which invite the variety butterflies dwelling in one’s locality. The library of the area will provide with this data. Any sort of water is necessary for the formation of the surroundings that will invite butterflies. Birdbaths appear striking. They also help to protect the insects from wandering cats and naughty dogs, by making them remain above the earth. A low, not very deep saucer, hanging from a tree or kept on a stick, will also serve the purpose.

While seeding a butterfly garden, one has to remember how he harmonizes the hues he has selected for his bed of flowers. Even though butterflies are least bothered by the selection of hues, one would hate his garden if it was a jumble of mismatched hues and surfaces. Lavender, Day Lilies, Yellow Sage, Purple Coneflower, Valerian, Daisies, Milkweed, Honeysuckle, Summer Lilac are some of the flowers which invite butterflies, for they are fascinated by flowers with nectar and not pollen.

It is convenient for a few people to sketch and paint a design of their butterfly garden diagram, to discover how their garden would look once completed. It has to be remembered that temperate hues such as red and orange are ostentatious and gaudy. Such hues leave a powerful impression when set in a dominant green backdrop. Hues having a calming and subdued effect, like calm blue and purple, look good against a white background, and generate an appearance of newness and brilliance.

Faisal Diab is involved with an online gardening project that informs and educates the gardening enthusiast through well-written articles. Discover how to get better at Organic Gardening, Indoor, and Vegetable Gardening.

http://www.gardening-advice.org

When Should You Water Your Plants

Friday, July 10th, 2009

A garden or flower bed can begin with healthy plants, but their continuing growth and beauty will depend on whether they are receiving the proper amount of water. This is especially important since over 90% of a plant consists of water. Your plants’ water requirements are dependant on the type of plant, the plant environment, the type of soil and the amount of time and energy that you have to spend in watering. The results of a proper watering schedule can produce a healthy plant with a good root system, the ability to resist disease and the capability to grow, flower and multiply.

Choose plants for your landscape and your lifestyle.
It is advantageous to choose plants that are adapted to the location that you plant them in. Determine if they prefer sun versus partial shade or shade. A sunny area will require more water because of evaporation. You also need to consider whether the plant is drought tolerant or requires more water, whether it prefers a well drained soil or will do well in a clay soil, and whether the plant will be a large plant with a great amount of foliage or remain small. Your climate may be a large influence on the types of plants you choose. Plants that are naturally adapted to your area will thrive better.

If you buy plants from a nursery, ask questions about the amount of fertilizer and type of watering they have received. If a plant is pampered with frequent fertilizing and/or shallow watering, they will initially require that same attention and it may take time to adapt them to a water schedule better suited to your flower garden

Water deeply and less frequently.
It is best to adapt the plant to a timetable that provides deep watering on a more infrequent time schedule than to water shallow and everyday. This will influence the plant to grow deeper roots which is healthier for the plant. When plants are small and first transplanted, they will require water often during the first week or two. Gradually retrain them by watering deeper and less often during the next several weeks. It is especially beneficial to do this in the early part of the season before the heat of summer will be working against you. Eventually, you should be able to do a deep watering a few times a week, unless extreme heat or a dry wind create circumstances that prevent this schedule.

For plants that do not require well drained soil or prefer very dry conditions, placing a mulch on top of the soil will help preserve the soil moisture and aid in preventing evaporation. On sloping landscapes, mulch will also help hold the soil in place and slow run-off.

Depending on the soil type, do not over water your plants. Plants require a healthy relationship of soil, water and air. If the soil is kept too damp, it will not allow for enough air around the roots and the plant will suffer suffocation. This will be evident if you notice wilting, yellowing, dry foliage and leaf drop. The soil should be damp and not “muddy”. Likewise, under watering can also damage the plant because the roots will not have enough moisture to send up the plant to the foliage. Generally the roots of an under watered plant will dry up.

Test your soil to determine its water holding capacity, infiltration rate and drainage.
Before you plant, test your soil for its watering properties. Water will penetrate sandy soil faster and deeper but will also evaporate faster. Loam soil will accept water at a slower rate but not as slow as clay soil. Clay soil has a tendancy to retain water longer. Water a small spot and using a trowel, make an opening that allows you to reach down between 3-5″. When watering the spot, use a small container or can to measure how much water was applied. When well watered, the soil at the bottom of the hole should feel cool and damp. If the soil holds too much water and does not drain well, it will create of problem of root rotting. Test the soil, with a new hole each time, for several days to determine how fast the soil dries to the point of needing re-watering. Keep in mind that weather conditions can quickly change the watering schedule and adjust accordingly.

Conditions that will affect the soil infiltration rate and drainage are the soil properties, the slope of the land and compaction. The soil properties of sand or clay can be changed with the addition of organic matter. Adding organic matter can make clay soils accept water quicker and will help sandy soils hold water longer. Plant beds that are on a slope will have greater run-off and can be aided by mulch or by building up raised areas on the downward side of the slope to slow run-off and allow for a better infiltration rate. Soils that are compacted will have a poor infiltration rate and will not provide enough air to the soil, water ratio for the plant roots to grow properly. Aerating, mulching, adding organic matter or wetting agents can be used to loosen the compacted soil. Organic matter should be added to a depth of 6-8″ deep for the best results.

Watering container plants.
Since a container planter has a limited volume of soil and water capacity, the watering schedule will be more frequent. A good rule of thumb is to water when the surface feels dry to the touch. Plastic or solid containers will retain the water better than porous or clay pots. Too much water or poor drainage in a container planter will not allow enough air to the roots and drown the plants. The bigger the pot, the more drainage holes it will require. Even though container planters require a more frequent watering schedule, it is not advisable to water too excessively during hot weather to avoid the sauna effect resulting in cooking the roots of your plants.

It is worthwhile to consider the watering requirements of your plants, the environment, and your soil properties when planning a watering timetable for your plants. Grouping plants that have similar watering requirements and knowing your soils properties will allow for the best use of your water and your time. Training your plants to accept deep watering, less often will adapt the plant to grow a good, deep root system. Being informed before you plant and then using that knowledge can help you have a beautiful and productive flower garden. Hopefully this information helps you with water flowers.

Debra Yeik is the owner of Cornerstone Yard and Garden Decor and enjoys the beauty of a well designed yard and garden as a part of your home. She wants to help you understand your plant watering. Cornerstone Yard and Garden Decor emphasizes quality items because your purchase should have lasting value. Visit Cornerstone Yard and Garden Decor.

Find competent ideas to how to install suspended ceiling – this is your individual knowledge base.

Discussion About Bare Root Roses.

Wednesday, July 8th, 2009

The first thing to look for is the plant’s grade.
Nearly all bare root roses sold today are grown in the field and are approximetly two years old. They are sold in three main grades.
Grade 1 is the best and most expensive grade. In order to obtain this grade the plants are required to have at least three strong cains, two of which must be at least 18 inches in length for hybrid teas anf grandifloras. The canes should be at least 1/8 inch in diameter.
Grade 1 1/2 is the most popular grade due to it’s lesser price. In order to obtain this grade the plants are required to have at least two strong canes which must be at least 15 inches long for hybrid teas and grandifloras. The canes should be at least 1/8 inch in diameter.
Grade 2 is the least expensive grade. These plants are only required to have two canes 12 inches or longer. These plants can be a gamble as they may be stunted.
Note: Measurements are for plants when dug from the fields. Sometimes the plant sellers will shorten the length of the canes for easier handling. The number of canes remain the same and usually the thicker the diameter the better the plant.
There are three main sources for buying roses.
Nurseries are normally more expensive but are usually the best places to buy your plants. Plants are normally kept in sawdust thereby allowing you to inspect the roots. Plants with badly damaged roots are less likely to do well and may not make it at all. Additionally, a nursery usually carries a large variety of new and old standards. Finally, a good nursery person can provide advice as to which plants do best in your area and climate.
Mail order suppliers are normally less expensive and usually have a greater variety of plants than your local nursery, however you can not inspect the plants before buying and they sometimes arrive damaged. Furthermore, although most mail order suppliers are reputable a few are disreputable and ship very poor quality plants. Additionally, it is hard and can be expensive to return plants that you are unhappy with.
Supermarkets are inexpensive but usually carry a limited variety of plants. Additionally the plants usually come with their roots wrapped in plastic, therefore you are unable to inspect the roots for damage. Plants can be treated roughly in supermarkets, not only by the people that stock them, but also by customers. Therefore, there is a much greater potential for damage.
Should you buy newly developed varieties or the old standards?
Which variety of plant you purchase depends on your taste and what is available for your climate.
There are hundreds of varieties of roses, however I prefer the older time proven standards. They may not come in as many color variations but they are reliable, still come in a large variety of colors and are usually more heavily scented (I like to smell the roses). My two favorites are both red. The Chrysler Imperial is a full well shaped velvety dark crimson red flower with a rich delightful fragrance which grows on a heavily flowering medium height bush. Mister Lincoln has long buds with full open dark rich red fragrant flowers with long stems and grows on a tall bush with dark glossy leaves.
Roses, if properly cared for, can last years. Therefore, in order to obtain the most enjoyment from your plants it is a good idea to do your research. Spend some time looking at types, colors, shapes and sizes. Check catalogues, the internet, check out friend’s gardens and if possible go to an arboretum or nursery. Look at and smell the roses before buying. Read more other articles about miniature dogs and dog pounds.

Access free tips about suspended ceiling – this is your individual knowledge base.

The Important Issue Of Amazing Artemisias

Tuesday, July 7th, 2009

WHO IS ARTEMIS?

Amazonian moon goddess. Goddess of the hunt. Goddess of the wild things. Goddess of the midwife. Goddess of the herbalist. Mother of all Creatures. Leader of the sacred bitches. Great she-bear. Diana. Selene. Ever Virgin; owned by no man. We will visit her sacred wood on a shamanic journey. Who knows what will happen then.

HOW DO ARTEMISIAS GROW IN YOUR GARDEN?

Most Artemisias are perennials and grow best from cuttings, not seeds. Sweet Annie is the exception, being a self-seeding annual. Although you can buy tarragon seeds, you can’t grow true tarragon from them. Wormwood and southernwood and tarragon (the last not winter-hardy in many places) are woody perennials which regreen each year on last year’s new wood; I prune only dead wood from them. Cronewort is an invasive perennial that creeps underground; it dies back to the ground each year and can be heavily harvested (clear cuts are ok) without damage to its further prolific productivity.

Most Artemisias require little care. Lack of soil nutrients and lack of water do not faze them. Many are native to deserts, and know how to thrive in hot dry weather. Except for tarragon, all can overwinter without fuss.

Flowers are usually small and green, in other words, nearly invisible.

WHAT DO ARTEMISIAS CONTAIN?

bitter principals: wormwood
coumarins: cronewort, tarragon
essential oils (complex, variety specific, with hundreds of components per plant): cronewort (high in camphor, thujone), tarragon, wormwood (high in camphor, thujone)
flavonoids: cronewort, tarragon
glycosides: cronewort, tarragon
hormones: cronewort (sitosterol, stigmasterol)
sesquiterpene lactones: cronewort

HOW ARE ARTEMISIAS USED?

Artemisias, with their grey-green or white-green foliage bring beauty to the garden throughout the growing season. They also make long-lasting, aromatic and beautiful indoor decorations: bouquets, wreaths, swags. They are popular strewing herbs, too.

Those which are high in essential oils are thereby antibacterial, antifungal, and antimicrobial. They also improve digestion and appetite if taken in small doses.

Any Artemisia growing beside the door – or painted on it – was, in days of old, the sign of the midwife, the herbalist. Magical and folkloric uses are numerous.

“Mugwort possesses both natural and supernatural qualities. [It] excels as a woman’s herb, easing the pain of labor, menstrual cramps, and effectively treating various uterine complaints.” Gai Stern (1986)

Cronewort/mugwort = smudge, dream pillow, moxa, birthing steam, vinegar of roots and young leaves, salad green when young, mugwort noodles, mugwort mochi. American colonists used the sundried leaves as a tea substitute. Formerly a popular beer flavoring (hence the name mugwort). Controls worms in goats. Urinary tonic. Uterine tonic. Digestive tonic. Nerve tonic. Circulatory tonic. Cronewort eases pain and fever, comforts grief and depression, eases irritability and burdened joints, brings peace and sleep, and reassures the nerves.

Moxa demonstration and discussion.

“That torturous, barbaric practice, the use of the moxa, is closely related to this plant.” Millspaugh (1892)

Wormwood = tincture, oil. Ingredient in absinth. Stimulates mid-brain activity and increases creativity, but repeated use disturbs the central nervous system. Prevents giardia, dysentery, amoebas. Cholagogic, digestive, appetite-stimulant, liver-stimulant, wound healer. Caution: Use can lower seizure threshold; interacts adversely with seizure-reducing medications.

Sweet Annie = capsules, in fairly large daily dose, to prevent malaria; source of antimalarial drugs. A strong tea, taken frequently, kills giardia and amoebas.

Tarragon = vinegar, seasoning. Appetite stimulant according to Herbal PDR.

Southernwood = dream pillow, sachet, charms. To see the beloved.

SPECIES

Some of the many Artemisia species that herbalists and gardeners use:

A. abrotanum (southernwood)
A. absinthium (wormwood)
A. afra (African wormwood)
A. annua (sweet Annie, qing hao)
A. camphorata (camphor-scented sothernwood)
A. drancuncula (tarragon, estragon, little dragon)
A. frigida (fringed sagebrush)
A. lactiflora (ghost plant)
A. ludoviciana (silver queen)
A. pontica (Roman wormwood)
A. schmidtiana (silver mound)
A. stellerana (old woman, dusty miller)
A. tridentata (sagebrush; three-toothed sagebrush)
A. vulgaris (cronewort, mugwort)

Read more other articles about tesco car insurance and cobra insurance.

Shortcut to handy information about online home based business – read quoted webpage.

The Best Secrets Of How To Prune Roses .

Tuesday, July 7th, 2009

Pruning your roses is an essential part of rose maintenance. There are many ways and opinions on the best way to prune, when the perfect time to prune is, and which roses need pruning. Many seasoned rosarians have their favorite tested methods.

Pruning roses is not as complicated as some people think. To make it easy, there are 7 basic rules to follow when pruning your roses. If you keep these rules in mind, you will be rewarded with the most beautiful rose bushes.

The first rule in pruning roses is to remove any dead or dying growth. In doing this, your bushes will look good and will be free from signs of diseases. Removing the deadwood will discourage insects from making your rose plant their home. Insects love rose plants so keep an eye out for them while pruning.

Second, you should keep the center of your rose plant clear. This helps keep your bushes clear from pests and insects and allows good ventilation, which reduces the likelihood of fungus growth and other diseases.

Third, it is important to keep your rose plant away from other bushes so that their growth will not be impaired. If your rose plant is disturbed or overcrowded by other plants it may not grow, as you desire.

Fourth, you must shape your rose bushes while they are growing. This will prevent the roses from growing too wildly. If you do this, your roses will grow properly in the right direction. You will notice some roses growing in different directions. These are roses, which have not been shaped during growth.

Fifth, you must use sharp pruning shears. This is important so you make a clean cut and don’t effect the areas that you are not pruning. If you use a pruning shear that is not sharp, it may result in uneven branches, which can hinder or result in uneven growth.

Sixth, you must clean your pruning shears so they are free from diseases or fungus spores. The shears should be kept dry to prevent rust formation which makes your shears dull. If your shears are not sharp, you will have a hard time cutting the desired parts and will end up damaging the branches.

And lastly, you should seal the cuts you have made so that they will be free from disease. Using Elmer’s glue works well and it is inexpensive.

Roses are considered tolerant plants so pruning roses is important to keep them free from diseases and insects. If you follow these basic rules, your roses will flourish and live for many years. It only takes a little patience and your efforts will be well rewarded. Read more other articles about trendy hairstyles and layered hairstyles.

Read expert hints for how to install suspended ceiling – your personal guide.