Archive for the ‘Container Gardening’ Category

Basic Tips for Gardening in Containers

Thursday, July 29th, 2010

Here are several basic tips for gardening in containers.
Firstly, use a good quality potting mix for the soil in your container. Potting mix that includes perlite, peat, and a wetting agent, will be a light, nutrient-rich soil to get your plants off to a good start.

Garden soil from your back yard can compact and turn concrete-like after regular watering. If this happens, the plant roots will cease growing as they need a good open soil to allow for the roots to travel and for absorbing nutrients. Quite often, depending on your geographic location, there may well be a high percentage of clay in the soil from your yard.

Not only will a high clay content shrink as it dries, but indeed dry to a close representation of something kiln-fired. Just to add to the misery, clay will not absorb water. It will hold water, most certainly and you will be able to see it too – sitting on top.

Although you can find some plants that indeed handle high clay content, how many others do you wish to kill in order to find out? Also, it is a pretty safe bet, that any decorative plants you purchase, will not be able to endure such rigors.

Do not use pure compost, either. Compost will quickly shrink and may very well harbour insects, disease, or un-composted material that will rot the roots of your potted plants. Unless you are desperate, try not to re-use the spent potting mix from last year’s pots, or plants passed their prime. This is no better than using half-flat batteries in some device, namely, it is a waste of time.

Good potting mix is relatively cheap, so do your plants and yourself a favour, get fresh soil. If you insist on using old soil, you are going to have to feed your plants a lot more frequently. The soil from spent pot plants, is best incorporated into the compost heap, to ultimately be revitalized through that process, to be mixed with the following year’s soil mix.

Do not over-feed your container plants. This will only lead to an over-abundance of leaves, or long sappy growth that is easily damaged and susceptible to insect attack. Fish-emulsion, or seaweed-emulsion, will provide all the trace elements plants require and it comes highly recommended.

Liquid plant foods promote healthy growth for strong plants. The addition of a little slow-release fertiliser beads, will attend to the plant’s needs on those occasions that the liquid feed is forgotten.

When watering plants in containers, regardless of the size of the pot, be sure to soak it completely at each watering. This does not mean that you keep watering, until it runs out the bottom of the pot. A far better method of making sure the plant has enough water, is to either soak the entire pot in a bucket of water, or, if the container is too large to be moved – water it a number of times throughout the day.

To clarify watering of the larger containers, as you water it throughout the day, use a full watering-can with a rose spray head each time. If you merely place a hose slowly trickling into the container, the water will probably form channels via unseen air-pockets and cracks in the soil, to the bottom of the pot.

Apart from a shallow area below the top of the soil and, around those channels, little else gets the needed moisture. You see the water running out the bottom and think “good-o”, but little has actually been achieved for the water requirements of the plant.

These few basic tips for gardening in containers, should help you to get started with potted plants.

 

 

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Re-planting Pot-Bound and Bare-Rooted Plants.

Tuesday, March 2nd, 2010

If a recently purchased plant comes out of the pot easily and is not root-bound – plant it as is. Don’t worry if some of the soil falls away.

If the potted plant is so new in the container, as to have not yet settled, you may find all the soil falls away from the roots. Do not panic. Firstly, never buy from that retailer again. Then recover the fallen soil, re-mix it in with the new soil or potting-mix, then continue potting.

If after you have removed the pot and the plant is tight with roots, or root-bound, more roots than soil – you need to tease these roots apart before planting. Sometimes you may need to cut the roots, if indeed the plant has been in the pot too long. These roots are cut like you would a melon, then tease the roots apart removing any damaged material. Probably a little hair cut will be in order, too. As the roots have been growing around and around the pot, they can reach quite a length, unsuitable for re-potting.
If you do not do this, the roots may continue to growing as they were doing in the original container. Even though the plant will continue to grow in it’s new pot, it’s growth will be slow if not stunted.

Should you find the plant is pot-bound and in need of some root assistance, once again, you may find yourself with no soil around the roots. Do not panic. Do not buy from that retailer again. AND, do NOT mix those roots and soil back into the new potting-mix. If you include this with the soil being used in re-potting, as those roots inevitably start to rot, this may indeed create problems for any new roots trying to get a foot-hold and rot them too.

All damaged, bleeding, or loose roots should be removed. Either cut them back to the base of the root if heavily damaged, or, in the case of light damage just back to a healthy portion of the root.

In both these cases, including bare-rooted stock, the soil-less roots should be placed, as much as possible, in a fan like arrangement on top of a little hill of soil in the container. Being mindful of the original soil level on the plant and sticking to it, fill and tamp until you get to about an inch from the top of the container.

Water thoroughly, or soak the pot in a bucket of water, to remove any air bubbles.

Using the above information, you should have no trouble with re-planting pot-bound or bare-rooted plants.

Re-planting Potted Plants Into the Yard

Tuesday, March 2nd, 2010

Pot plants – Out of the Pot Into the Yard

Whenever you bring new plants back after a foray to the gardening shop, or receive them via mail-order, it’s very important to remove them from the packaging immediately. Harmed plant material should be clipped off.

Place the plant in a covered, shady area and water thoroughly. Water should freely to drain from the drain holes within the pot, the potted-plant ought to really feel more substantial, or heavier, right after it has been watered. It is a great idea, a day before planting, to allow the plants roots and soil to fully re-hydrate, and the plant to get used to this new outside environment.

Once you have made a decision, as to wherever you will place the plant in your back garden, excavate a hole at least twice as large as the size of the  existing container. If the specimen is large, or going to be a tree – NOW is the time to bang in a supporting stake for tying the plant to as it gets larger.

You may wish to mix compost or potting soil together with your native earth to reduce transplant shock and improve root growth. Place enough of the mixture in the bottom of the hole that allows you to mix it in with the existing soil, by digging the two together. The amount of soil-mix in the bottom of the hole depends largely, on how big the plant, including it’s root-ball is. You want this level of soil to allow the plant to not be planted too deeply. Be mindful of any grafts, or branching near the root ball, and never have the soil near this!

Carefully remove the plant from its pot. It may assist to tap the pot lightly, upsidedown, on it’s edge, or squeeze its sides, to loosen it from the container.

Put the plant in the hole. Add or remove the soil mixture under the root ball to ensure that the top of the root ball is just below the level of the surrounding soil. Planting too deep can kill the plant!

Once you have positioned the plant to the correct level, you can start back-filling around the plant’s root-ball. Work your soil blend in firmly, not too much, with your fingers between the root ball and the surrounding hole.

When the hole is two thirds full, fill it with water – yes, FILL it. This will assist in eliminating any air bubbles trapped around the roots. The number two killer of newly planted stock is air bubbles around the roots. Waiting until the water has dissipated, back fill with the rest of the soil, right up until you’ve reached just below the surrounding soil level, and lightly tamp, in order to leave a shallow depression around the outermost edge of the hole. This is for subsequent watering.

Complete the planting through the use of a 2″- 4″ inch covering of mulch, stretching the mulch a good 12 inches or more everywhere from the center. Good mulch choices include shredded bark, pine needles, straw, or even stones. Mulch will shield the roots from the hot sun, help keep hold of moisture content, and suppress weed growth.

When you have finished, water thoroughly. You should see the water gathering in that shallow depression you have just made. Follow up with a minimum of weekly watering, until the plant appears to have taken – leaves looking healthy and shiny, if not new leaves.

If leaves display indicators of wilting, but the earth is moist – do not panic. Some plants can take 10 days or more to start becoming established. Be patient. Replanting can be extremely traumatic and sometimes, newly planted stock will sit there and sulk for a bit.

I hope this has helped to answer some of the questions you may have had about Re-planting Potted Plants Into the Yard.

 

Container Gardening Tips

Saturday, October 17th, 2009

Some of the most spectacular gardening is on the rooftops and patios of the world’s largest cities. Today’s homeowners and apartment dwellers do not have to discard gardening. In fact, they can create their own garden hideaway.

Gardening in small space means you plant in containers, choose plants carefully, grow up on trellises instead of outdoor, hang plants from something overhead. Herbs, vegetables, shrubs, and citrus fruits can all be grown in containers. More and more vegetable varieties are available specifically for container growing.

For small-space growing people can grow in everything from custom-made pottery to clay pots and wooden planters. Your gardening containers must have drainage holes at the bottom. Cover the holes with a section of window screen so the soil doesn’t leak out.

Get a bag of dry, soulless mix for container gardening. You need to soak the soil with water before planting. This process can be messy, so plan ahead and do it outside if possible. Moisten only as much as you’ll need for the current task.

Keep an eye on your gardening container. It can dry out quickly in hot weather. If you really get into it, you might want to consider a drip irrigation system. This is a network of plastic tubing that can be regulated to provide a constant moisture supply to your plants.

Most plants need an average of 1 inch of water every week. You should try to water your garden plants earlier in the day, so the sun can help dry off any water left on the plant. If you see a plant drooping, be sure to water it, because some plants wilt and do not recover if they dry out.
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About The Author: Roger King is a successful author and publisher of http://www.1st-home-decor.com Gardening and ideas to showcase your homes.

Gardening in Containers

Friday, October 16th, 2009

Every Garden can benefit from the addition of container gardens. They add interst and variety, plus are easily moved around. If you live in an apartment or have a small area to work with this may be the only solution for you.

Your Container
Your container can be pretty much anything and is only limited to your imagination. Just make sure there is adequate drainage for your plants. I love old buckets, discarded kitchen pots and baskets for a rustic feel. For a formal garden choose a more traditional container.

Regardless of your choice of container, make sure it’s not to big or too small for your planting.

Your Soil
Do not use garden soil for your container plants. Garden soil is too heavy, dries out too quickly and will not provide the needed nutrients your container plants need. You can find good potting soil at your local garden center or you can mix your own.

To mix your own make sure you include soil, peat, sand and a slow release fertilizer.

Maintenance
You’ll need to pay close attention to your container grown plants — much more than plants in your garden beds. The soil will dry out more quickly so frequent watering it a must. You’ll also need to fertilize more often. Water in the morning or evening whenever the soil is almost dry and water thoroughly until water comes out the bottom drainage holes.

One thing I really love about container gardening is mobility. If a particular grouping doesn”t work you can simply move your pots and change your garden design.

Have fun, experiment and be creative!

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J. Dow has been an avid gardener for the last 15 years. She faces the challenges of New Mexico’s high desert a 6800 feet. Resource websites are: bulbandseed.com and: agardenwalk.com