Archive for the ‘Bonsai’ Category

Naturally Occurring Bonsai, or Environmentally Dwarfed Plants

Monday, April 26th, 2010

Let us talk about naturally occurring Bonsai, or environmentally dwarfed plants. We will take the example of the plant growing, tacked onto the side of a mountain.

This article is not intended as a scientific paper, therefore I have no need and even less desire, to go into every variation of each sub-topic.

Naturally occurring Bonsai is a bit of misnomer, as Bonsai is something that humans DO to plants. On the other hand, environmentally dwarfed plants, is a survival process of plants in the harshest of growing conditions. Any plant, given the required growing conditions, will survive if not flourish, for the expectant number of years for that particular species, if not longer. However, before a plant seed can even germinate, it requires:

  • soil,
  • sunlight,
  • moisture in some form,
  • and nutrients.

Also, the pre-emergent seed must contend with:

  • extremes of temperature and exposure,
  • inappropriate final resting place (in a tree, cave, between a rock and a hard place, etc),
  • lack of available moisture,
  • inappropriate soil types,
  • and being consumed by any of the myriad other elements in nature, from: birds and animals large (bears) or small (rodents), insects, bacteria, moulds, fungi in general and various other pathogens.

An experiment was conducted in the ’80s, using 1 1/2 kilos of irradiated (for tracking purposes) seed (seed size is about that of a pin-head) from a species of river casuarina. This species grows on the water’s edge and the bulk of the tree hangs over the water. The majority of the seed was released at tree height (av. 20ft) to the river, as this is the natural seeding event of the plant, with wind playing a major role.

From this release and up to 5 years following, it was found that 3 trees had survived. Think about that, 1 1/2 kilos of seed the size of a pin head. That’s a lot of seed that didn’t make it, in optimal circumstances.

This simple fact of seed predation and chance in nature, is why plants are such prolific producers of seed. Sheer chance that anything actually survives – it’s just a jungle out there.

Now, provided a seed lands where it has a chance and survives, this is all well and good. But what of our poor thing on the mountain? Multiply the chances of getting knocked off exponentially. So how can a plant survive in this situation?

In harsh environments a plant requires a few tricks for survival:

Speed of germination and establishment:

Once the right conditions are met, they may only be fleeting. If, a plant lands – in the lee of a rock, on viable soil, with some moisture, thereby taking care of most of the requirements, this may be the only day in the year that it actually rains. Seed germination and establishment needs to be rapid, in averse conditions.

One adaptation to the germination and establishment process, includes the development of taproots. This is the main central root from which smaller branch roots originate. In harsh environs, this taproot will be the first part of the plant to develop, plumbing as much of the available depth of soil as possible, as fast as it can. Not only does this allow a more stable plant, but as importantly, allows access to reserves of moisture and nutrient not available to plants with a lesser root system.

Fluctuations in Temperature:

There are those places on earth that experience the full gamut of seasonal weather in one day. Melbourne, Australia, comes readily to mind.

On the side of a mountain, depending on the aspect in regards to the sun, a plant may very well experience freezing temperatures over night and scorching throughout the day.

In order to survive this, plants have through natural selection, evolved a number of protective adaptations to compensate.
This can take the form of:

  • a wax-like coating on the leaves that minimizes water loss,
  • a covering of hair on leaves to reflect, or dissipate heat,
  • modified leaves, or needles, reducing the surface area of the leaf and water loss,
  • rhizomatous root systems, yam like roots deeply buried to escape such extremes,
  • smaller leaves to reduce moisture loss,
  • and latex-like sap, further reducing evaporation, plant palatability and in some cases, acts as a kind of anti-freeze.

Let us not be forgetting annuals and herbaceous perennials. In harsh environments, once conditions are right, annuals can grow, flower, set seeds, then die, all in a matter of weeks, and only repeat the process the following year. Herbaceous perennials, will die down to the ground level, possibly with a rhizome, to counter the effects of expansion and contraction due to freezing and thawing.

Predation:

There are a great many plants that prevent predation, in particular that of grazing, by having unpalatable leaves. This can take the form of prickles, toxic sap, etc. Or for that matter, the sheer inaccessibility of the plant.

Overall Habitat:

If the plant has found footing in a place that meets all requirements, but is subjected to destabilising winds on a regular basis, the adaptation can take the form of the way the plant grows, or shape. These plants will regularly grow either very low to the ground, or in fact along it, to reduce the wind resistance. The shape of the plant creates a better environment for continued growth and subsequent shading of the soil can go a long way in saving, or reclaiming moisture.

Some species, such as juniper and cypress, will readily lose the bark on the windward side of the trunk, surviving at times with only a thin vein of viable bark feeding the tree. Hmm, starting to look like a bonsai.

Nutrient:

No plant is not going to survive without some form of nutrient. Once again, in harsh environs, this comes down to chance. If  a footing is found in the lee of a rock, there is far greater probability of available nutrient, as due to wind and rain action, organic detritus will gather in these places, ultimately breaking down to form a sparse sort of compost. Certainly not enough to grow veggies, but just enough to sustain a plant that already knows what a rock and a hard place is.

Development:

As these hardy plants develop, so the actual act of surviving gets a little easier. Branches are enticing for creatures to land on, adding their manures, the fact of the shelter provided will do the same. A larger plant, will hold a lot more moisture about it’s leaves and branches, whether after rains or from morning dews. This moisture, when on waxy leaves or needles, will then be shed at the drip-line, further increasing the moisture levels and chance of survival.

Animals may burrow under or about the plant, mixing manures, soils, minerals and organic matter as they do so. All of which may sound just peachy for the plant in question, however, the improvement in the physical aspects of where it grows, will not turn it into a Christmas tree. The deciding factor is still the environment. The improved habitat will keep it alive, longer.

Most of the above, happens incrementally, on a molecular scale and is therefore painfully slow. The fact that a plant surviving an adverse environment, looks really, really, ancient – is probably because it is. Fast growth is soft, full of sap, full exposed and in no way able to stand the depredations of harsh environments.

This why, in those conditions plants become naturally occurring Bonsai, or environmentally dwarfed plants. It is purely a matter of survival.

 

 

 

 

 

Bonsai Do Grow Outside

Friday, April 23rd, 2010

Bonsai trees and plants are essentially specimen plants that are trimmed and cut to maintain their size to a pre-determined dwarfish state. For those people unfamiliar with the actual process of Bonsai, it is often presumed that this miniature form is achieved through depredations, such as starvation , radical root and branch hacking, and a general degradation of the plants overall living environment. Such as you would see a naturally occurring Bonsai, growing on the side of a wind-swept and inhospitable mountain-side.

However, the fact of the matter is that Bonsai are happy little plants indeed. They actually thrive on this process, considering the care and maintenance lavished upon them. You see, because the plant is being forced into an unnatural living state, if it were not given the extra care, more like as not the poor thing would just drop dead.

Think about it: jammed into a tiny pot; the roots are serially pruned to suit the size of that pot; the foliage is trimmed and primped so that it is proportional to the size of the pot; generally trained into contorted shapes to affect the look of incredible age like that poor thing growing on the mountain-side; AND, here’s the kicker, some Bonsai have been handed down through generations within a family and can reach incredible ages of 500 years and more.

There are in fact, very few plants, on the planet, that are able to achieve this state of grace in the wild. So, is “Bonsai” being cruel to plants? Er, no. Quite the opposite. I discuss “Naturally Occurring Bonsai, Wild Bonsai, Environmentally Dwarfed Plants”, in another article.

Bonsai specimens for indoors are available for purchase from essentially anyplace in the world and the popularity of the hobby, has to contributed to the growth of suppliers specializing in the sale, care and maintenance of Bonsai plants.

Bonsai do grow outside, and it is a relatively easy thing to do, if you have a little area of the patio or similar area to spare. You may very well be surprised at how much happier your Bonsai is, if you put it outside. It will pay to purchase your specimen from a local nursery, where the plants are already kept outside.

If you buy the plant from an outlet where all the plants are under flouro. lights, then take it home and bung it outside, you are already on the back foot. These plants will be “soft” and completely unprepared to contend with the conditions you are about to force it to put up with.

Similarly, if you already have a Bonsai indoors and think you can just chuck it out on the patio, please disabuse yourself of the notion. Any plant, whether store bought, or currently residing indoors, that is “soft” – needs to be gradually introduced to the outside environment, if it is to remain there for any length of time. You must acclimatise it: to direct sunlight, temperature fluctuations, and general environmental factors such as wind, etc.

At the same time, if you live in the extreme hot areas of your country and are thinking about purchasing from the Internet, make sure the plant does not come from a cool climate, as this is just a recipe for disaster, if not tears.

Purely because you have decided to grow your Bonsai out in the garden, doesn’t mean you can just walk away and ignore them, expecting them to preserve their miniature height, or even survive for that matter. A Bonsai that isn’t trimmed and properly maintained will discontinue being a Bonsai, and simply become a sapling, and an ugly one at that. Maintenance, means precisely what it says. You must maintain the plant, with the lifestyle it was previously accustomed to.

When you have an out of doors Bonsai, do try and resist the temptation to bring it inside, for more than a day or two at a time – and then, only for display, or bragging purposes. Should your prized specimen appears to be sick, it will without doubt, not enjoy the rapid alteration to it’s growing environment. It’s really crucial to remember this, do not bring an out of doors Bonsai indoors for a longer period than one evening each season.

Dragging your Bonsai indoors throughout the winter months, where no doubt there is a  raging heater for the comfort of humans, will dry the plant out, likely scorch the leaves, and also dehydrate the roots. The opposite can also happen, where an outside Bonsai in the high temperatures of summer, is brought indoors where there is air Conditioning. The shock to the plant is the same as frost in summer and can also destroy your Bonsai.

Do Bonsai grow outside? Sure, just remember that this is a plant that requires a little more specialised treatment than a pot of geraniums. Supplying your outdoor Bonsai with the care a maintenance the plant needs, will see it flourish.

Bonsai Tree Gardening – Basic Tips for Growing a Beautiful Bonsai

Monday, September 8th, 2008

The art of training the bonsai tree has been enjoyed for ages, and can make for quite the enjoyable and rewarding hobby. In fact, early forms of this practice actually began over a thousand years ago, when the Chinese started growing potted trees of a single specimen, this practice was known as “pun-sai.”

The Chinese admired the gnarled and twisted trunks and branches for their fantastic appearances, sometimes resembling dragons and animals, while the Japanese approach was more for the appreciation of the simplicity and harmony in the natural beauty of the tree itself, and how that fit in with Zen Buddhism.

The Japanese adopted the art form around the year 1195, and while Buddhist monks mainly practiced it at first, it soon became an activity that people all over Japan would enjoy. From its early stages as tree planting, over the years it has developed into the act of training a tree through meticulous pruning and care.

Today, bonsai is the act of training a miniature tree to look similar to its larger counterparts. Bonsai trees are actually not miniature trees by nature, but stay that way through constant trimming and binding.

Choosing Your Bonsai

Bonsai trees are typically sold in one of two ways: as carefully trained plants or as starter plants. Carefully trained ones are often found in good garden/landscape centers and have had lots of work and already have many branch formations. Because of this, they can be quite expensive.

The other option you have is buying starter bonsai trees – those plants that are commonly seen around shopping malls, for this reason these tree are also referred to as “mallsai.” You can train a starter plant, but it will take a lot more work and time to get it to be as lovely as professionally trained bonsai are.

Watering Your Tree

Since bonsai trees are typically grown in pots, like many potted plants, they need to be watered often. This is for the simple fact that water can quickly drain from pots leaving the plants dry. In summer, you’ll want to water just about every day, making sure that your bonsai is moist to the touch at all times – but do not over-water or else the roots will rot. This may be the beginner bonsai enthusiast’s greatest problem – watering the tree too much. In winter, it is advisable to water your bonsai about once every three days.

Fertilizing Bonsai Trees

Feeding your bonsai with the right fertilizer at the right time of year is imperative for keeping it in good health. The best types of fertilizers for bonsai are the pellets that slowly release nutrients into the soil, with these, you can make sure that it’s not all washed away when you water your tree. Soluble powder and liquid fertilizers will work, too, though. The best time to fertilize your bonsai is from early spring to late summer. Look for a fertilizer that has a low nitrogen content to feed to your tree year-round. And in autumn, look for a fertilizer with very little to no nitrogen.

If you keep these tips in mind and give your tree lots of proper care, you’re likely to end up with a beautiful bonsai that you can enjoy for years to come.

Katya Coen provides information on garden supplies and garden tools for GardenSupplyGuide.net – your guide to growing beautiful gardens in your own backyard: http://www.gardensupplyguide.net/